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Lady BuiLGoi fs New Winter Designs i
New Tendencies of Fashion. By Lady Duff-Gordon
XT /HAT are the newest ten
J fashions? Never have there been so few
' * changes in the general trend of the fashions
~ x sat this season. The gowns themselves remain prac-
.rally the same; the newest tendencies are shown in
'ne little touches—the waj a girdle is draped, the way
Jflfe. 1 neck is finished, the way a scan is adjusted.
. * n very t ru th> this year it is the little touches that
count I can see very little change in the hats. The
shapes are practical!.' the same as last year, but the
trimming is decidedly different.
For instance, I have created a butterfly hat that is
jsHß| absolutely novel. The hat is a widc-l rimmed, low-
“THE ADORER OF BEAUTY,” an Afternoon
jMSIMS Costume of Green Velvet Trimmed with Skunk
' Fur to Match the "Pipe" Muff. This Costume
Shows the New Length Coat and One of My New
Small Hats.
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GRAY VELVET RECEPTION GOWN (on the left), '. .■;
Exemplifying th- Newts' 'i • 'J Effect. Gray Fox Fur s
Used or. Idem '••:! .- : Cuffs .0 f'atch the Large Muff. «■. y* ?" ■ ' ? 5
Small Hat with Cockade in Two Shades as Gray. '• • ■;
THE “ALL-TOGETHER” COCTUME (on the right), of | O ' ■ \
White Satin Charmt use, tremely Long Skirt and I (!3d,>.. <
the La eat way Coat of Black Satin. ■.,
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clowned affair of brown silk plush. On the very tip of
the biini. just as though resting for a moment, is a
-.olden brown butterfly, with its largo wings opened
just a trifle.
1 his typifies the new hat. decoration. The top of the
mt is left unadorned- all the trimming is either on the
tip edge of the brim or underneath it.
of 0 .*.'i It " ulnlsua * thing to see a hat with a whole, bird
feath' d lM ’ " n< tcrneath the brim or a spreading osprey
111 then I have used plastrons of roses in this
w l ' ti" i,en !<atht ‘ rs are I JUt under the brim in this
- " 1 nds either stand out beyond the edge or curl
down backward over the ear.
, 1 ' '“ n,art women of Paris have adopted the small
culi las 1,1 " aS last Winter 16r the mas
•nz. U J 7* X <lll d f° r sma l! children. This Winter th<
i n< amos have seized upon it and invariably wear It
'"' tl,eir morning tailored costumes.
few T th ?' nO O CSt Skh ' tS? Skil ’ tB ’ Hke the hatSl ehow
1s Clan^t > ' J hey are narrower than ever, and that
wh, 1 ‘ ,l ' > '~ t *hat can be said. In tailored costumes.
* ° S^*r^a are short, they are not more than a
irmv , alHi , a ,la!t around the hem. They are no longer
gored. Gored skirts are absolutely out.
circmlLT 5 "? 1 SkiFtS ar< ’ <>Ut in tWO pieces - A narrow
Pieces an<l ” baPk the Same wi<lth - T,lese two
„,. . . , re jolned on the hips over an Inset of the same
nm , la ° r ° f SOme t,ifCerent fabric. For instance, a
• serge skirt will have side insets of blue brocade.
1 e velvet or blue corded silk, matching exactly the
serge, of course.
A new idea that has captivated many of the mon-
< ames who are devoted to short skirts is the bunched
fulness just above the ankles at the back. This fulness
< oes not make the skirt any fuller at the hem, as it is
aid in two pleats or folds on the side.
< oats are longer, slightly fuller below the hips and
■' . plain. Buttons of cloth rather than the fancy but
tons of last year are the smartest this season.
The one bit of decoration that can be used with im
punity this Winter is a touch of brocade. Brocade col
lars and cuffs have displaced the elaborate braiding.
Never before has severity been so absolutely vital
in tailored costumes. Parisians of the smart world
have practically adopted a morning uniform, so plain
are their clothes.
But what a contrast Is presented in their evening
gowns and “at home” costumes! Over-elaboration is
the tendency in these costumes, and the one-color cos
tume is absolutely out. Eight or ten color tones are
frequently used in one evening gown.
Every age is represented in these smart, costumes
for formal affairs. We have robbed the Orient, we have
taken ideas from the days of Pharaoh, of Cleopatra and
even of Eve.
With the over-elaboration of decoration has come a
craze for transparency that is startling, even in Paris.
But the Parisian woman of fashion and social standing
wears her transparencies only in her own home. She
never wears them when she is herself a guest, and she
never wears them in public places.
Girdles were never so elaborate, and scarves are a
necessary part of every.formal costume. The present
scarf does double duty. It frequently forms the girdle,
or perhaps, draped over the left shoulder, forms a
sleeve.
Muffs are larger and very elaborate. They are made
of brocade, of velvet and of chiffon, with bands of fur.
and when brocade is used the hat must match. The
velvet and brocade muffs are shirred in five or six sec
tions. The muffs are new in shape. They are practi
rally pipe shape. The pipe that is used for the carry
ing of water and gas! The}- are long and round. The
draped muff and the muff that is wider than it is long
no more find favor with the mondaines.
The keynote of beauty is absolute simplicity.
Whether in house decoration or feminine fashions, 1
believe that absolute simplicity should rule. Person
ally, I think that it is within every woman's power to
make herself beautiful. And not by means of paint
and powder, but by her clothes. To be chic, to be.
exquisitely gowned and groomed is to be beautiful.
Manneis may make the man, but dress makes the woman. The
woman 01 plain features can make herself beautiful if she chooses her
gowns with an eye to her defects as well as to her good points.
No woman who does not. know her defects can dress herself as I
think she should. The woman who does not realize that her left shoul
der is a bit higher than iter right is hopeless. The woman who does not
realize that her pale blue eyes can be darkened by the colors she wears
is equally hopeless.
1 do wish that 1 could impress on all women that clothes mean more
than anything else to them. Women of acknowledged beauty have been
called ■‘homely’' when it was their clothes that were homely and not
their faces. Beauty and smartness are twin sisters.
The Latest Creations.
IN the fashions that 1 am discussing this week are many and varied
models. In the picture at the extreme left corner is my ideal street
costume, the “Curate.” The Curate is my exclusive creation; it is
suitable for all ages of women—the debutante, the bride ami the matron.
This model is built of blue serge. 7he skirt is one of the two piece affairs
that are fastened over on side pieces on eacli hip. In the Curate the hip
pieces must be of the material that the skirt is made of.
The long semi-close coat is absolutely plain, the only true feminine
touch is given by the high collar and lace tie. The many buttons are cov
ered with the cloth. The hat is one of those small velour affairs that
Paris is just wild about this season.
In the next picture is the gown I call the “Adorer of Beauty.” The
skirt is one of my new one-piece models, and the coat, as you will notice,
is longer than those we wore last Winter. Skunk fur is used on the coat
and also on the small hat. The bunch of tiny roses on the tip of the
brim is one of the new ideas in trimming.
Next, I am showing you two afternoon gowns that are very chic. The
gray velvet and fox costume shows to great advantage the newest draped
effect. A gray and silver brocade waistcoat is a distinctive feature of
the bodice. The gray and white fox muff is the latest shape and size
\ contrast is given by the gown on the seated figure. This I call an “All-
Together" costume. I call it by this name because it is a costume that
is all together. The gown is of white satin charmeuse and the cutaway
coat of black velvet has a waistcoat of the satin.
The large future on the right of th* page is wearing the “Wine of
Bove” evening gown. This is an elaboratt costume of gold chiffons and
spangled green net. It is very transparent, for there is no lining under
neath the net skirt. The wrap of the gold chiffon is unlined and is
trimmed with skunk fur. Notice the novel arrangement of the scarf. It
hangs from the left shoulder in a manner especially Turkish.
My “Mascot'' is suitable for a debutante, but a woman of any ag >
The
New
“Curate’
Street
Dress,
the
“Wine
of
Love”
Evening
Costume;
the
“Adorer
of
Beauty,’’
and
the
“Mascot”
Are
Among
Fashion's
Latest
Novelties
Created
by
Lady
Duff-Gordon
could also wear it. The overdress is of sheer, coarse-meshed black net
embroidered with roses of many snades. 1 am particularly pleased with
the scarf on this gown. It is draped so as to form the left sleeve. Tiny
roses in garlands give a charming touch to this frock.
Mascot
Costu me
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Is One of My Latest Models. I