Newspaper Page Text
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AJltinU'An, rt lUAlV I A, UA., SUNDAY. AIHiCfST JO, till 3.
•HARE; y i GOWN’ 18 NOW RAGE
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DRAPED TR0USER8GII/ENAME
By MME. HAUTE MONDE.
B ELTS of white kid, lined with
colored ribbons or silk, are
dainty accessories to the all-
white outdoor costume. One style, a
wide belt of dull kid, which fastens
together with pearl snap fasteners
and has two wide sashes at the side,
is lined with shell-pink taffeta rib
bon. Another sort of white lined belt
shows a piped edge of colored kid to
match the lining, and a white kid
buckle piped with color,,
* * •
No more than in grown-ups is there
any lack of variety in wearing ap
parel for children. Coats, frocks, hats
each show's interesting little touches
and carefully worked-out details.
Children of all ages are wearing
their skirts unusually short just now,
while as for the waist line, it may be
anywhere above or below the normal
waist line, for the use of the normal
line has a tendency to make the fig
ure look older, and the chief charac
teristic of any frock between 4 and
16 year sizes should be its youthful
ness.
• * •
Women of to-day love >o array
themselves in fragile robes of white
tulle bordered with white fox and to
load their necks with pearls. It is in
a way a white season, and all the
white things that are now most fash
ionable are expensive. I never re
member having seen so many neck
laces and ropes of pearls worn in the
daytime as now; it is a sort of mania
with women of fashion.
* * ♦
An automobile rainproof (water
proof) and disproof silk lap robe is
a beautiful affair—green on the one
aide and white on the other and
bound with green leather. It is so
light that it could be used in sum
mer without giving warmth and yet
would furnish the desired protection
for dresses. In winter it would be
Just as useful spread over a heavier
robe.
• • •
This reminds me of the latest rain
coat—the lightest (in weight) article
of its kind—made of silk mounted
on a rubber lining. It is very soft
and folds easily into a little pocket-
case six inches long. It is of a,beau
tiful shade of dark blue and most
elegantly made.
* * *
One of the most beautiful felt hats
I have seen for men came with the
latest importation from England. The
felt has body, yet it is the Softest,
cilkiest and smoothest of felts, fold
ing easily into any sort Of a lump
without a w r rinkle to tell of its rough
usage afterward. It is for the
traveler, and is to be carried in a
case three by four inches—a regular
vest pocket affair. It takes but an
instant to pat it into shape, and it
retains its form perfectly until re
folded.
• * *
Black velvet neckbands in the
Marie Antoinette style are as pop
ular as ever, but some of the great
art jewelers of Paris are making
some attractive bands in deep blue
velvet rimmed with sapphires. Need
less to say, these neckbands are ex
ceedingly expensive, quite as expen
sive as an ordinary necklace of pre
cious stones, but then they are im
mensely chic and with white sum
mer dresses they give the most ar
tistic effects it is possible to imagine.
* • •
The fashion for thin white frocks
made of plain and colored materials
has had extensive vogue this summer,
and many of these gowns made of
costly and admirable material are now
to be had for a few dollars.* Think
what good-looking house gowns they
make for the winter evening; they
^Iso serve for day hours* when one
must attend weddings-or receive at
afternoon teas, and the women w r ho do
few- of these things find such gowns
excellent for informal theater parties.
Even the much abused white skirt
with its flowered taffeta coat can be
utilized all next winter for the theater
and f*r restaurant dinners and sup
pers if its sleeves are made elbow*
length and its neck is cut open in
front.
* * *
Inexpensive glass beads can be
worn to give the right tone of color
to the afi-white costume. Opaque
beads are^old in chains sufficiently
long t6 go about the neck and drop
in a V-line in front—a line which is
artistic and much more becoming
than the round neck line. These heads
come in various shades of green and
are especially effective In jade colo.*
They are also sold in yellow, red and
blue.
* * *
Attractive evening caps are made of
-'White tulle. They consist of a puffed
crown, edged with a box-plaited frill
that turns smartly back from the face.
They are trimmed with pompons of
stiff tulle at the side. Other pretty
evening caps for summer wear are
made of silver or gold tissue, mount
ed on China silk, and banded with
fluffy, soft white marabou.
* * *
There was a time when the mak
ing of a fashionable girdle was a
feat for the nimble fingered. Now’
the most modish girdle is made of a
strip of taffeta silk, plainly fastened
about the waist, edged on each side
with an inch-wide frill of knife-
pleated silk. The girdle is madp
Without folds, and is loosely worn.
It hooks in the back, under a flat bow
or buckle, and is eight or ten inches
wide.
♦ * ■
The “bungalow apron” is popular
with the brides who like to appear
“housewifely.” It is an all-envelop
ing apron, with elbow sleeves and
square neck, w’hich buttons from
neck to hem in the back and is neat
ly belted in at the waist. It can be
worn over the frock to keep it spot
less, or, if the day is sultry, it can
be w'orn instead of a frock and thus
serve the purpose of two garments in
one.
These aprons are made generally of
plain, serviceable materials. One at
tractive sort is of khaki, the belt,
pocket, cuffs and neck piped with red
cotton. Another is of thin blue and
w’hite gingham with pipings of blue
lawn.
The rad of White
Mourning
White mourning, which has been
gaining ground tor months, is a sen
sible fashion for the sultry days of
August, and is worn more naturally
now than it was in the winter and
spring. Then it attracted attention,
and was therefore shunned by many
women of conservative taste. Now,
when all the world wears white—all
the American world, at any rate—
white crepe and other mourning fabr
rics are inconspicuous.
The woman who wears white
mourning must remember that she
must wear nothing but white. White
and black in no wise, indicate mourn
ing, and no matter how many attract
ive frocks she sees which combine
white with black, she must remember
that white mourning must be all
white.
The use of white mourning crepe
for trimming should be as cautiously
indulged in as that of black. Too
much crepe suggests showiness. But
as for trimming material, and one of
the few’ allowed to the women in
mourning, crepe holds an important
place.
Kneeless Stocking
Nov/ California Fad
I Pasadena Society Women Emulate
| Example of-Co-eds of Leading
Eastern Universities.
At Least That’s the Opinion of
London Writer in Discussing
Craze for Display.
Greek and Orient Combined in Costume; More
for Drawing Hoorn Than Street.
The latest Parisian gown for wo
men, the “Harem,” Is here. It is
Illusive, alluring and bewildering, this
gown of cobwebby tissues which is
worked out in an exquisite maze—
the color of California poppies drip
ping with dew—the dew being illus
trated by quantities of the finest cut
crystal trimming.
The Princess* of Arabian Night fame
may have worn some such a costume
when she weaved the various legends
which saved her from being tied in
a sack with thp^ or four raging cats
and tossed into the Bosphorus.
The gown, which combines the most
ultra of Parisian modishness with the
languor of the Orient is not planned
for street w’ear, it is rather for the
drawing room or boudoir.
Sheer and transparent voluminous
trousers disclo.se white silk stockings
heavily embroidered in brilliants. The
trousers'are not gathered at the in
step, but edged with the same crystal
trimming which falls over extremely
high-heeled, cloth-of-gold slippers.
The only note of contrasting color is
in the draperies of the bodice.
The gown has its greatest charms
when the wearer is seen in silhouette
against a brilliant light. Then there
is all the grace and beauty of the
Greek dancing figure.
These same costumes, made up in
more opaque and darger mateiials
are being worn on the boulevards
and in the cafes of the French cap
ital. ,But it is not expected they will
become of general vogue in America.
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON, Aug. 9.— Since a woman
correspondent in The Times wrote it
length of the "orgy of undressing”
among women it has been rather
amusing to note the different theo
ries put forward by men and women
in newspapers to account for the
feminine fashion to wear fewer
clothes. Side by side with comment
for and against on the craze for
"leaving off” have been remarks >n
the daring character of modern modes
and the airy fashions that obtain for
women.
Stockings of diaphanous silk, slash
ings and liftings of the skirt to dis
play the leg halfway to/the knee,
showing every movement, and the
low necked afternoon frock with a V
shaped opening filled with filmy lace
have all been under discussion.
One correspondent suggested that
women were engaged on “an extensive
advertising campaign."
Two women writers have referred
respectively to "the return of the
prude” and “the triumph of common
sense,” while a third has taunted men
with regretting the passing of the
petticoat because there is for the male
no piquancy and mystery about the
tight skirt. Man prefers, she implies,
the fiting provocative skirt.
The most novel explanation, how
ever, is advanced by Mr. Godfrey
Dean in The Daily Dispatch, which no
other has yet offered.
"The explanation is,” he writes,
"that the woman-feminine, as I mav
so call her. finds it necessary—owing
to the changed attitude of men towa’d
women brought about by militant
suffragism—to distinguish herself by
a definite display and assertion of her
essential femininity from the woman
suffragist, or at least, the suffragist of
advanced or militant opinions.
“I do not for a moment think that
in thus calling on masculine attention
by making the most of her physical
charms the woman-feminine is act
ing deliberately on conscious thought.
On the contrary, I think this alluring
display or feminine curves and form
by means of transparent and clinging
gowns Is sub-consciously inspired by
the events of the last, twelve months
or so, which have made men more
critical of women.
“In her natural repugnance, to being
mistaken for what she is not—a suf
fragist—the woman feminine is dis
playing her charms. She cannot very
well wear a label: she cannot very-
well declare herself to strange fellow
travelers for what-she is. but she can
and does endeavor to distinguish her
self from women of whose conduct
she disapproves.
“The more the woman suffragist
asserts herself the more necessary it
is for the woman-femi*#*^- to assert
herself. It is woman's silent duel,
and dress, or should I say undress,
is playing a big part in it.
Many Lives Saved
As Train Is Ditched
Forethought of Towerman Averts
Crash Between Specials by Tak
ing Chance on Tragedy.
PASADENA, CAL., Aug. 9.—Emulat
ing the fair co-eds of some of the lead
ing Eastern universities, a number of
Pasadena society women are now wear
ing the kneeless stocking and the custom
gives all promise of becoming the fail
in the Crown City’s smartest set before
the opening of the coming winter social
season.
The “kneeless stocking” Is nothing
more or less than men’s half hose, and.
according to those who have discarded
Die ordinary long feminine stocking, so
much comfort and satisfaction is being
derived by the wearers of the kneeless
hose, which comes no higbe r than the
calf of the leg. that It Is doubtful if they
ever return to the usual style of stock
ings worn by the fair sex.
With the adoption of the new fad,
men’s furnishing stores In Pasadena
have had a rush of business in half hose,
with the fair sex of Pasadena the pur
chasers. At the department stores the
finest grade of men’s silken hosiery is (
> irg shown, with the brig 1 colors most j
in demand
Among th
■Hi lei . o
are more enthusiastic over the superior- I
ity of this style than Mrs ,1. Marcus i
Hothingwall, president of the Pasadena !
Pansy Club.
Slit Trousers Man
Mobbed by Newsboys
Leffiingwell Doak, of Pittsburg,
a Martyr to the Cause of
Fashion.
11*1 IIU.
>ng those who have discarded the
ng*h for the kneeless stocking none
$16,500,000 Gems in
Buckingham Palace
Extraordinary Precautions Are Tak
en to Protect Jewels Against
Burglars.
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON, Aug. 9.—King George has a
great idea of his resuonsibility in re
gard to the jewels at the various royai
palaces, and from time to time has them
recatalogued and revalued. Those at
Buckingham Palace were recently as
sessed and declared to be worth <>16,500,- I
000. I
It Is said that there is scarcely an ob
ject in the whole collection with which
the Queen is not familiar. New meas
ures safety have been adopted and
it would now be impossible for the clev
erest burglar in Europe to make an en
trance without attracting attention.
An electric alarm was recently added.
The police guard around the palace has
also been Increased.
Net and Lace Are in High Favor
Right Now—Telling Effects
in Black and White.
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON, Aug. 9.—However over-
elaborated may be the fashions as
w orn by the “Upper Ten,” the women
of the stage nowadays set the exam
ple of being always appropriately
dressed, whether the function be a
river picnic or a race meeting.
Some of the frocks seen on the up
per reaches of the Thames are par
ticularly attractive. One greatly ad
mired gown was of white voile, worn
.by Miss Cooper, with a close allovcr
pattern of blue and a center panel of
fine embroidered batiste, with the un
dercollar and pipings of a darker
blue. The prettiest black velvet bows
finished both the neck and waist.
Another of dainty pink had broad
insertions of embroidery and a black
suede belt, while a third was of Pais
ley voile in blue and fawn. Still an
other. perhaps the prettiest of all. was
of white Irish linen with Insertions
of lace. The lower half of the skirt
and the front of the bodice were in
broderie Anglaise, and again there ap
peared the chic black belt and bow.
Blouses have become more diapha
nous; net and lace are all the rage
just now, some specially pretty frocks
having touches of black on collar and
jabot, while others of white French
voile are most fascinating.
Town to Draw Rules
On Woman's Dress
Morals Efficiency Committee Is Rais
ed to Take Matter Up With
Burgess.
ROCHESTER. PA., Aug. 9.—F«rl-
lloVNing suggestions made by D. \\\
Denton, president of the Rochester
Council. Burgess J. M. Cargo will be
asked to formulate a set of rules reg
ulating wearing apparel of women
who appear on the streets of Roches
ter.
Denton’s suggestions were made on
complaints he said had been made to
him about the transparency of the
gowns worn by young women. A
Morals Efficiency Committee wa?
named to take the matter up with the
Burgess.
Watermelons to
Reduce Living Cost
Greatest Supply Ever Known Now
Being Consumed—Chicago Eats
100 Carloads a Day.
Ham bone am sweet, bacon am good,
Possum fat am very, very fine;
But gimme, oh, gimme.
Oh, how 1 wish you would,
That vvatermllllon hangin’ on the vine.
—OLD SOUTHERN MELODY
PITTSBURG. Aug. 9.—A martyr to
fashion, W. Loffingwell Doak, of the
North Side fashionable set. was .this
afternoon mobbed by newsboys in
Fifth avenue when he appeared in silt
trousers.
Mr. Doak’s trousers were of a light
check material. The slit extended
from the bottom of the legs on the
outside to within about six inches of
the knee. A glimpse of bright green
hosiery, of the long feminine variety,
was disclosed. Mr. Doak carried a
light bamboo cane and a handkerchief
was tucked in the cuff of hia right
sleeve. He was the first follower here
of the style predicated at the Na
tional Convention of Tailors at Cedar
Point, Ohio, last week.
Doak bore the clamorings of the
boys until they began to kick fiim in
the shins. He called for a policeman,
and when one appeared the boys scat
tered. Doak took a car, announcing
that he would go right home and
change his clothes.
$350 for a Dress
Held Not Too Much
Mrs. John Francis Yawger, Promi
nent Clubwoman, Thinks Sum
Is Not Extravagant.
Should a woman be considered extrav
agant because she spends $550 for a
dress? JMrs. |ohn Francis Yawger, sec
retary of the Federation of New York
Women’s Clubs and member of many
other civic and social organizations, doe*
not think so. “When a woman spends
large sums of money on her persons!
appearance she is reflecting as much
credit on her husband as on herself. '
says Mrs. Yawger. “If her husband
can afford to allow her to pay $360 for
a dress the public has no call to de
scribe the woman as extravagant.”
‘Dressed-Up Dude'
Thrashed by Woman
Though Man Was Roughly Handled,
Judge Fines Masher $25
in Addition.
CHICAGO, Aug 9.—Scores of lives
were saved to-day when a towerman in
Burnham. Ill., threw’ the Ohio River spe
cial on the Pennsylvania Railroad into
a derail and averted its collision with a
through Wabash train from St. Louis.
The train took the ditch at high speed.
The Pennsylvania locomotive was over
turned In the crash, but aside from
minor injuries suffered by the fireman,
no one was hurt.
A moment after the Pennsylvania
train hit the derailer the Wabash train
clicked across the frogs at the track in
tersection less than 1,000 feet away.
Dressmaking Class
To Cut Cost of Living
Paterson, New Jersey, High School
Will Make Every Girl Gradu
ate a Modiste.
PATERSON, N. J.. Aug. 9.—To com
bat the high cost of living the Pater
son Board of Education has established
a dressmaking department. In the fu
ture every girl graduate will be a train
ed modiste.
The question of advanced sewing in
the high school has been under con
sideration for some time, but the au
thorities have not before been in a po
sition to spend the amount of money
necessary to carry out their project.. A
large, light room, equipped with sew
ing machines, dress forms, electric
irons, Jroning boards and cutting ta
bles. has been set aside for the new
department.
CHIU AGO, Aug. 9.—Want to redu* e
the high cost of living? Eat water
melons—better and bigger and cheap
er than they TiaVe been for years. The
year 1913 is* the greatest watermelon
year ever known. The crop is moving
into town at the rate of 100 cars a j
day of the juciest, most delicious
melons that ever were plugged.
The Florida melons are gone. The
Georgia and Alabama bumper crops
are fast disappearing. Alabama and
Texas are keeping the world happy I
now counting the slippery black
seeds. Next week hurrah for Missis-
sour! and Oklahoma watermelons, and
they will linger until September.
Parrot Jests Judge;
Then Makes Ruling
Bird Calls Bache'or Jurist 'Papa’ and
Asks Him ‘How’s the
Baby?'
CHICAGO, Aug. 9.—“Hello, papa;
bow’s the baby?"
a parrot decided its ownership in the
private chambers of Judge Wade, In the
Chicago Avenue Court, by perching on
the bead <>r one of two women, who were
fighting for the custody of the bird, and
directing the foiegoing query at the
judge.
Judge Wade incidentally is a bachelor.
He smiled good-naturedly. Spectators
laughed The two women giggled.
The bird was awarded to Mrs. Clara
Gunn, who had been arrested on com
plaint of Mrs. Mary Krippels. Mrs.
Gunn took the bird out of the basement
of the Krippels home July 8. She testi
fied the parrot was stolen from her four
weeks ago.
JERSEY CITY, Aug. 9.—“The women
of Jersey City must he protected from
dressed-up dudes, who insult them In
the street,” yesterday said Judge
O’Brien, in imposing a $25 fine upon Ir
ving Bendar, of No. 112 Mercer street.
Jersey City.
In this case it was the defendant who
needed protection. His eye was discol
ored, his nose swollen and his lip cut,
the result of his encounter with Mrs
Viola Brophy, of No. 401 Ocean avenue,
Jersey City, whom he had accosted.
Everything 0. K.
With vour appetite—your |
digestive organs—your
liver—your bowels.
If not, you should ^
try a short
course
of
A®
It
** helps Nature
overcome such ills
as Flatulency, Indiges
tion, Constipation, Bilious
ness, Cramps and Malarial
Fever. Get a bottle to-day.
BRENAU COLLEGE-CONSERVATORY
PANORAMIC VIEW OF PART OF BRENAU’S WONDERFUL EQUIPMENT
C OMBINING an “A-i” college of literary note with a wonderful conservatory of music and a foremost school of oratory, it
at once becomes the South’s most progressive college for women and earns its title of a national educational institution
EQUIPMENT—Thirty-two buildings, modernly equipped and handsomely furnished,
including sorority, club and professors’ houses; a campus of over 100 acres,
including a hardwood forest and limpid lake, private truck and dairy farm.
FACULTY —Forty-four trained specialists, experts in their lines, graduates of the
leading institutions both here and abroad. A library of over 7,000 volumes.
Two pipe organs and 75 pianos.
PATRONAGE —Over 500 students gathered from thirty-two States and abroad at
test its national popularity. Ten States maintain State club organizations.
One of the few schools with natio nal sororities.
LOCATION—On the main line of the Southern Railway, between Atlanta (50 miles
away) and Washington. In the foothills of the Blue Ridge, one of the most
healthful and beautiful sections in the South. Gainesville is noted for its in
vigorating mountain air and spring water.
COURSES—The standard A. B. Course, with its 14-unit equipment; a Musical course
under the most famous vocal and instrumental teachers in this country; a
noted School of Oratory, including a course in Shakespearean Plays, cos
tumed from the college green room; Art, with its kindred craftsmanship work
in brass, wood, clay modeling and pottery; Domestic Science, with its practi
cal course of instruction in househo Id economics.
SOCIAL LIFE—The pleasures of college life are multiplied at Brenau. Receptions,
picnics, out-of-door fetes, concerts, class games and celebrations break the
monotony of school routine, and afford both healthful recreation and di
version. Brenau makes a strong appeal to lovers of the beautiful and the
best, as is evidenced in the equipment, the faculty, the furnishings and the
cuisine. However, the expense at Brenau is not greater than at other first-
class institutions.
Fall term opens September 11.
Write for handsome illustrated Catalogue. Address Brenau, Box ??, Gainesville,
Georgia.