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TTEARST'S SUNDAY AMERICAN, ATLANTA, OA., SUNDAY, AUGUST 31, 1913.
M RS. HERBERT CLARK,
in the (.'own that she
says is the most modest, in her
collection of filmy habiliments.
By MME HAUTE MONDE
T HE ra*e for tulle In all forma
Increases. Tulle hats are to bs
seen In all the beat millinery
studios and on the heads of all the
notable leaders of society, and tulle
hats of a very elaborate order.
• • *
Th# Parlalcnnes are using pal®
heliotrop# face powder In conjunc
tion with the new veils. The effect :*
good when very little powder Is used,
but, of course, It Is artificial. Deep
yellow fac# powders have quite gone
out of favor; and no wonder. A few
months ago It was an ordinary thing
to meet a throng of beautifully
dressed women who all looked as
though they were suffering from
Jaundice.
• • •
Cut Jet earrings, when the design Is
thin and graceful, are wonderfully be
coming They have the effect of mak-
lng thin faces look round and fat
faces look thin. For morning wear
cut Jet earrings are considered spe
cially correct, and they are worn 1n
conjunction with handsome Jet hat
pins and very often with elaborate
celnture buckles
* • •
The woman who can sew or who
knows a capable and Inexpensive
seamstress can have much dainty un
derwear at a reasonable price. Wide
shadow lace Is now sold at prices
varying from 40 cents to $1. It is
edged on each side with holes through
which ribbon is to be run, and It is
designed for under bodices. One rib
bon is run through the lower edge, to
gather It In about the waist Another
is run throurh the top edge. Tne
ends of the ribbons are tied In from
and ribbons are fastened across »be
shoulders.
• • •
Patent leather shoes, alwara a boon
to man or womankind, because they
sre so easily kept dean and bright,
are made up with kid and cloth in
many styles. One patent leather shoe
has cloth uppers, in the form of at
tached spats. Tlth straps going under
the arch of the foot where they are
fastened in the -iole. These shoes are
made with spats of purple, tan. gray
and black.
• • •
Shirtwaist gowns made of whfe
wash net are a novelty. The girdles
worn with these eowns are made of
black or colored satin, and are worn
at the normal waistline. The hip
Fash is no longer seen on the ultra-
modish costume.
• * •
Accordion pleated Indian muslin
and accordion pleated chiffon, these
are the favorite materials for this
season’s afternoon dresses, and these
pleatlngs are arranged in many dif
ferent ways. Sometimes the flounces
are placed on the skirt In gra<1 uated
widths, sometimes the whole skirt Is
pleated froan waist to hem.
• • *
Hatpins when used at all should be
uncommon and beautiful or they
should be frankly useful, Just ball
headed pins made of Jet. There Is no
excuse for the pretentious pins which
many women wear In conspicuous
parts of their hats, Imitation pearls
and imitation diamonds of the most
blatant description. A very' charm
ing idea Is at present finding favor.
This Is a set which is composed of a
pair of Jeweled hatpins and a veil
brooch to match.
• • •
The new idea In drapery r»n after
noon and evening gowns is a butterfly
bow at the back between the waist
and knees. It Is a part of the tunic
and is made by catching up the long
ends at the back and forming them
Into a colossal butterfly which Is flat
tened out against the surface of the
jown. Below' this th e skirt Is draped
In Its usual manner, with long bias
lines reaching from the front.
• • •
For Tittle girls figured dimity para-
aols are attractive. They are inex
pensive and durable and really sim
pler and more childlike than those of
Bilk.
• • •
All silk blouses should be made
■imply. It is now the fashion t<> omit
tucks and pleats and make a deep
shoulder yoke w'hich Is finished with
Beam beading or a piping of the ma
terial. The lowered armhole with a
loose sleeve is by far the best for a
schoolgirl, because it is less likely to
tear out; the length of the sleeve Is
for her to decide; the wrist length
Is the prettier, but the elbow length
is more comfortable and economical.
• • •
The one-piece frock Is the bulwark
of the schoolgirl’s outfit to-day. It
may be of heavy linen, cotton crash,
or eponge; or It may be of thin serge,
woolen ratine or corduroy. The latter
is a lasting material and fits in with
school life It always has been worn
and it probably always will be.
VI*
Plaids in ailk and w'ool both prom
ise to be very much with us once the
fall scaAon opens. And with the
plaids comes a revival of Homan
etripes.
• • •
A particularly charming silk cos
tume is made in a soft, wine-colored
taffeta. The skirt is side pleated, and
pleats, it is promised, will become
more fashionable as the summer rolls
into fall. The bodice ' simulates a
cut on the bolero lines,
and is edged with a ruching of the
taffeta. It slopes into a point in the
back, and is open in the front to dis
play a lace vest and a wide sash of
couple green taffeta arranged to fall
in the back in four loops finished with
deep fringe. A new touch is added by
fhe collar <»f black tulle with immense
wings at the sides.
• • •
There Is one exception to the high
trimming, and that is on the velvet
hat with the Tam o’ Shanter crown,
but here the extreme tilt of the hat
lends the ffect of height
Correctly speaking, the black velvet
costumes, and the jaunty little white
\at should be saved for the afternoon
0xat should be worn In the morning.
Across the water, these white satin
hats are being worn with white linen
frocks and suits. They are smartest
Her ‘Most Modest
Gown Slit to Knee 1
English Actress Sorry She Did Not
Wear Her Best in Filmy
Frocks.
NFTW YORK, Aug. 30.—It’s too bad
that Mrs. Herbert (Mark, who arrived
on the Mauretania to play in *‘()h, I
Hay,” didn’t know that America is
much interested in silt and X-ray
skirts or she would have worn the
best instead of the most modeHt gown
that she has in the filmy, diaphanous
line.
She obligingly posed, however, in
"the modest” gown, which was silt to
the knee, while the ship’s news re
porters wondered what the one she
declared "stunned” those who looked
at it might be like.
There were plenty of other frocks
of the filmy variety on board, and the
wearers vied with each other to see
who could don the most startling cos
tume Passengers whose berths were
on the moonshlny side of the prome
nade deck lost much sleep peering
through their windows as the fair
hikers passed up and down the deck
between them and the moon.
FID SEIZED I!
L
Fashion Born at French Watering
Places Attains Sudden Vogue
in English Capital.
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON, Aug. 30.—Some ravish
ing costumes In violet and white have
been seen at the smart French water
ing places, and London copied them
almost the next day, with the result
that brides-elect are choosing this
color combination for some of their
trousseau gowns.
Miss Glencoats, one of the great
English heiresses, who is marrying
Major Parsons next month, is having
a charming gown made for casino
use, and with it a very original hat
will be worn.
Something Like Jockey's Cap.
To take the violet velvet hat first,
it is copied from the First Empire
and bears some resemblance to a
Jocke»y’H cap, but the up-to-date mil
liner has broadened the crown and
brim and turned back the latter in
order to show a circular pleating of
violet tulle.
A hand and embroidered buckle in
a similar velvet surround th«* waist,
and shoes of the same material are
worn over violet silk stockings.
Buttons and Scarf Worn.
The dress is in white linen, with
the lower part of the Jacket worked
In raised white cotton. Large motifs
of Irish point, outlined with narrow
cord, are incru»ted in square niece-*
starting from each shoulder, and :ii
insertion of Valenciennes heads til
wide hem of the skirt beneath a dou♦
ble row of mother-of-pearl buttons.
A scarf in violet chiffon completes
this pretty dress.
There is a craze at all the fashion
able resorts for ovaJ white felt hats.
These are very simple and easily
packed.
Necklaces Used on Hats.
The hats can be made extremely
attractive with a trimming of black
velvet ribbon, tied plainly around,
with two short ends furnished with
white for silver tassels, but some
smart women have gone considerably
further, and now adorn these simple
hats w’ith red, blue or green necklaces
in uncut stones.
Others, very young ones, trim the
hats with baby ribbon or garlands
of the tiniest flowers.
SKIRTS FOR MEN BATHERS,
NOT WOMEN, SAYS LEADER
MADISON, WIS., Aug. 30.—H. D.
McChesney, swimming instructor at
the University of Wisconsin. in
charge of the Brittlngham Park bath
ing beach during the summer, thinks
men should be censured in the mat
ter of bathing garb more than wo
men.
"I think men should be compelled
to wear bathing suits with a short
skirt,” he said.
Riot of Exotic Tints Prevails in
Fall Offerings—Nothing Un
der $400 at Worth’s.
Special Cable to The American.
PARIS, Aug. 30.—Paris has gone
color mad if the general effect of the
first display of fall fashions may be
summed up In a single phrase. The
great makers of women’s costumes
are rejoicing at this development.
Goods in colors have never been so
heavily bought as at present, which
is regarded as a healthy sign of busi
ness.
The name of the Russian artist
Leon Bakst is heard on all sides.
Many gowns are named after cos
tumers which he has mounted, espe
cially at Callot Soeurs’. This house,
as usual, was the last to show its
styles, but when It did It outcolored
all the rest. The pisanelle, its most
gorgeous evening gown, which is
named after D'Annunzio’s play, Is a
dazzling arrangement or derangement
in green, with amethyst Jewels and
silver brocade mysterleuse.
About $20 a yard wholesale is not
an unusual price for the materials for
wraps, w'hile $6 a yard for double
width silk velvet is considered a mod
erate price. More ample draperies
are being used, and this makes the
manufacturers happy. Skirts of satin
with knife pleats held In place all
around please them very much, as do
also the longer coats which Cherut
and Polret are showing. Some of these
reach to the ankles.
Paquin also has long coats of Louis
XV style with gorgeous waistcoats.
Premet’s wide girdles that pull down
over the hips with no break at the
waist line are much admired. Pre-
met’s show pieces with a wired pan
nier on one hip caused much com
ment.
Uallot Soeurs’ waist line is pulled
up in front higher than ever. They
retain the narrow skirts. Most of the
other houses show longer waists. The
skirts are given volume by quiltings
of ribbon. Flounces and laces are
not unusual. Entire lace tunica of
filmy draperies are other prevalent
features.
Shimmering metals brocaded on
brilliant colors promise a winter of
gorgeousness which has rarely been
surpassed. Added to this Is the in
evitable fur trimming. All the known
furs and furs that one never heard
of before are used.
In Worth’s redecorated salons $400
has been made the minimum price for
any gown. Prices generally, how
ever, are thought to be somewhat less
exorbitant than heretofore.
England to Provide Silks, Ireland
Linen, Scotland Tweeds, and
Wales Corsets.
John and Prince Olaf of Norway wtU
carry the bridal train.
A1 the royalties In England will be
present at the ceremony. By partic
ular request of the Duke or Con
naught one or two representatives oi
the Dominion of Canada, of which he
Is Governor General, will be Included
in the invitations.
Real Trousers Worn
By Western Woman
Business Demands Dress as Sever*
as Man’s, Says Employee
of Grocery.
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON, Aug. 30.—The Duchess
of Fife is to have an “all-British”
trousseau for her marriage to Prince
Arthur of Connaught. Orders have
already been sent out.
England, Ireland, Scotland and
Wales are all receiving their share;
England is to provide the silks and
other costly textiles as well as gloves
and footwear, Ireland the linen and
lacc, while Scotland and W*,les will
supply tweeds and woolens and cor
sets.
The young duchess will have eight
bridesmaids. Four will be princesses
—Princess Maud, her sister. Princess
Mary; Princess Patricia of Connaught
and Princess Mary of Teck. Prince
STOCKTON, Aug. 30.—Something
new in feminine apparel has been
donned by Mrs. K. Faraclas, employed
in the shipping department of a local
wholesale grocery, In the form of a
combination trouser and skirt suit.
“I have worked for the company
for many years.” says Mrs. Faraclas.
“In that time I have become con
vinced that the business woman
should adopt a mode of dress as
severely plain as that of man. I have
worked alongside men for so long
that I do not think I am far off the
track In this idea of mine.”
During working hours Mrs. Fara-
cias wears the trousers and a soft
black and white boy’s shirt. When
she is on the street, a straight, two-
piece skirt is worn, buttoned onto the
waistband of the trousers and fasten
ed by tailored straps at the side, al
lowing access, however, to all six
trouser pockets.
whon they are kept very simple. A
few have a touch of color intro
duced In the under facing of the felt
brim, but the majority are all white.
• • •
While the yellow shades are not as
chic as during the summer, they are
considered smart, especially the r 11-
leul, which resembles an unripe lem
on more than any other color. Tne
canary and the sulphur tones are
also fnshionable, particularly for
trimming and where merely a dash of
color is required. For instance, there
la a very stunning now vesting In a
bright yellow tofie with conventional
flowers in red. which has been or
dered by the knowing couturiers. Be
fore leaving yellow, the soft beige
and biscuit shad a should be men
tioned, as they are very well liked In
the lightweight cloths and in silks,
such as charmeuse and satin.
Blue has lost none of Its prestige,
and some authorises say that the new
blue series should be given first place
rather than the copper tints Of the
blues, the new blue a shade deeper
than peacock blue Is a great favorite,
and also the corbeau. The soft blues
on the Nattier and Dutch order uro
very desirable, and the very dark blue
shares the demand for somber color
ings.
Th© red shades vary widely. There
Is a very bright red. an almost bar
baric red. that is very well liked by
the couturiers who go In for vivid
colorings, but the majority of reds
blend into the dregs of wine tints
and the soft brick colorings. For
evening wraps the geranium red is :n
great demand There is also a purple
with quantities of red in It. a shade
which Nature has reproduced in the
' I Inst this there is the
violine. or very deep violet, with a
bluish tinge.
The browns must not be overlooked,
for all of the couturiers have made
much of them, the tobacco and Ha
vana browns leading A soft, pretry
rose tint was combined with brown
on several very effective costumes.
This rose tint mus. be recorded be
cause it has appeared in many of the
duvetyn coats.
For the street, the dark, rich shades,
the tete de negre. a deep taupe, ana
a blue that Is almost black are con
sidered the most fashionable An
other new color Is called heather, a
lovely soft grayish lavender, that Is
particularly attractive in a silky tex
ture. There is still a demand for or
ange, which the vogue for both yellow
and red naturally would continue, but
it Is used almost exclusively for trim
ming. And everywhere there is silver
—quantities of silver. Many of the
damask broches are heavily embrold_
ered in silver threads, while silver
lace is considered more chic ».nan gold
lace.
Two Hundred Shoe Salesmen
Are Leaving LYNCHBURG
With 20 Car Loads of Shoe Samples
These 200 knights of the sample case will take with them from eight hundred to a
thousand trunks containing approximately two hundred thousand (200,000) shoe samples.
LYNCHBURG is “The South’s Shoe Center.” It occupies the same relative
position in the South as a shoe distribution point that Boston occupies in the North—
and the supremacy of LYNCHBURG as “The Souths Shoe Center” is due to the su
premacy of LYNCHBURG Shoes.
When You Buy LYNCHBURG Shoes
You Are Patronizing Southern Industry
From Which Every Southerner Must Eventually Benefit
* VV '-V. . .