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10 H
ITEARRT’S SUNDAY AMERICAN, ATLANTA, GA„ SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, imB.
TIGHTEST OP TIGHT GOWNS
NEWPORT IS STARTLED AGAIN
By MME HAUTE MONDE.
C n RANTED that th* butterfly tn
-j the most prominent trimming
feature of the hour, whether on
smell or large hats, the tendency Is
toward feathery decorations of va
rious typea Tbt ostrich plume Is be
tng used more extensively than for
many years, and particularly by the
Paris milliners who cater to the
American trade. It Is ostrich in all
Its curly beauty that Is used to-day.
rha uncurled, dr&ggv looking feather
of the last few r seaaoha having dis
appeared from the new hats. These
mounts of ostrich may be arranged at
ths back or at the side where the
brim breaks or curves upward
• • •
The newest corsage sachets to he
pinned somewhere beneath the trane
parent veiling of the waist—are small
colored satin bags Incased in real
cluny lace cases The pink, blue or
lavender satin cases are slipped Into
the outer lace cases and fastened
with removable ribbons. »«' that dif
ferent colored satin cases may he
used It is not a difficult undertak
ing to make these dainty corsage sa
chets at home.
• • •
The demand for fur of every de
scription has brought into existence
the imitation for cloths, which are ho
cleverly made that It requires a care
ful scrutiny to discover the differ
ence between t*he broadtail cloth and
the genuine pelt. The mole pelt has
been equally well imitated, and. like
the broadtail, conies in the natural
coloring, black and green. These fur
cloths are all-ailk materials, and,
combined with velvet, make very
handsome street costumes.
• ♦ •
Small clusters of bright-colored,
unnatural looking fruits give the de
sired dash of color to many of the
little hats which tilt over the face
and flare high In the back. This is a
development of the ntnlche hat, or
rather, one should say, an adaptation.
In order to make It more becoming
the brim In the front Is broken, as In
shown tn the drawing, for unleas one
is blessed with the piquant type of
countenance these hats accentuate
one's age The piquant face, with
small features, such as nine out of
ten French women possess. Is the
onlv type that looks well In the* very
small hats, though many of them are
Imported and worn by Americans who
in other matters of dress have un
questioned taste. The majority of
these little hats are fashioned from
taffeta or velvet
• • •
Supple white satin 1s the favorite
material of milliners to-day. It is
combined with linen and with velvet
or moire.
One of the newest face veils is
made of fine silk tulle in a pale shade
of heliotrope with tiny pin dots all
over Its surface.
Shoe buckles are mounted on strips
of velvet the color of the gown with
which they are worn. Some are ar
ranged on tongues of plaited velvet.
Buckles made of pale blue, pink and
yellow satin and chiffon rose* are
worn on pale colored satin evening
slippers.
• * •
11 la the fashion to cover the coat
collar with something white, and an
attractive choice is the negligee of
white erepe de rhlne or marquisette,
marie tn the Robespierre manner and
falling well over the shoulders and
fronts of the coat
...
The skirt In tiers Is a success of
the season. These skirls have taken
the fancy of women—so long used to
straight or draped effects. Three tiers
Is the favorite style. Plaid materials
are the erase and one sees tiered
skirls with alternate plain and plaid
flounces to the waistline, the bright
plaid appearing again as a trimming
on the jacket.
• • •
Real tortoise shell Is the Ideal thing
for hairpins. The present style of
hair dressing demands thal several of
these pins should he of the broad
fork shape and that the prongs should
he rather short. 1 have seen these
real tortoise shell pins Inset with sil
ver with good effect. I have also seen
them rimmed tn finely cut Jet.
For blonde hair the pal. shade of
tortoise shell gives a dainty appear
ance, while red-gold hair looks host
when arranged with cut Jet pins -»r
those ma > of dark tortoise shell ln-
crusted with little Jet facets
• • •
Velvet ribbons edged with pivot are
now very’ much used hv the best
Parisian milliners. Some of these
ribbons are very wide, while others
are comparatively narrow. Individ
ual taste Is permitted grant freedom
this season. A Panama would look
well If trimmed with wine red vel
vet ribbons or with a long length of
velvet ribbon In u strong shade of
Parma velvet.
• • •
The latest style of hairdressing for
the daytime calls for a feu very good
pins in tortoise shell or (lull silver.
ETerv effort is made to do away with
anything like an artificial appeantnee
and the woman or girl who . an ar
range her hair with a single comb li
the admired of all.
• * •
Newest shoos may have high Louis
XV heels, hut they have broad soles
and they are mostly laced up ovel
the ankles.
• • •
Collarettes of marabou are short
and wide and finished with a bow
and ends They come in exquisite
chinchilla mixture, a softly shaded
gray and a variety of new' Parisian
shades.
• • •
Close-fitting hats, with outstanding
trimming, are as much in vogue as
eter. The trimming may he either
feather, fancy nr loop- «>f ribbon anil
jrtKel jd fonu.ruv shops.
SIT MODISTES
Simplicity Will Be Sought, but
Masculine Severity Will Be
Carefully Avoided.
M08T CHARMING OE GOWNS
EOR A SEPTEMBER BRIDE
Wonderful Parisian Trosseau Js Being Pre
pared for Miss Marion (Hen Coats.
ENGLISH VISIT
M RS. “REGGIE” BROOKS, snapped on a Newport street
as she startled the ultra fashionable residents of that re
sort. She is shown wearing the new minaret gown, which is the
tightest of the many variations of the clinging skirts seen here
tofore.
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON, Sept. 13.—At a time
when the newspapers are so ardently
and earnestly discussing the new
Paris fashions of the X-ray gown It
is pleasing to discover that there will
be worn this autumn and winter
some smart and chic gown* of an
other kind.
The Time® has Just published an
article which, to one who has not
been fully initiated into the mysteries
of feminine apparel, seems to be a
worth while - discussion of the ever
present problem of what may be
called chicness. The Time® says:
“Quite the most Interesting of the
‘Fantasies sur le Costume Moderne’
recently exhibited in London by Leon
Bakst 'ake the form of a coat and
skirt. Indeed, that is partly why these
■fantasies' are of such interest to the
practical student of dress.
“For no matter how variable the
modes, the coat and skirt always per
sists; It is only In its precise form
that there is continual change. Again,
though these drawings are frankly
fantasies, the artist has expressed in
them the salient points of to-day’s
fashions. The picturesque aspect of
the coat, the importance of the waist
coat, the narrow ness and the straight
ness of the skirt are well noted. In
each the Idea in so simple and yet so
wonderfully effective. Simplicity also
characterizes the decoration. So tha f
many a couturier with a too generous
bias to ornament might learn from
them some useful lessons In the art
of restraint.
“The best designers, however, have
for the last few years set a standard
In this matter. And. judging from the
new models displayed for the early
autumn, they still maintain this ideal.<
Not for the first time do pe see that
because the coat Is perfectly cut and
the skirt cleverly arranged a smart
effect is obtained. In many instance?,
however, the waistcoat is extremely
decorative, a beautiful brocade being
considered *none too luxurious a ma
terial for this detail.
Skirts Not to Be Wider.
"Meanwhile let no optimist hope
for a widening of the skirt. For,
though it Is possible that Paris may
exert her influence in this direction
when October is here, she seem® at
present to be taking an impish de
light in flouting those who criticise
the scantiness of the season’s models
by giving the new models an even
narrower effect than any which have
preceded them. This is made possi
ble In some instances by the manner
in which the front® are crossed, and
without seam, for plenty of freedom
Is thu® insured with the narrowest
possible appearance.
“The picturesque note which has
recently characterized thq coat-and-
skirt Intended for full dress occasions
is still maintained. Everything that
is stiff and formal Is avoided. Even
when a coat Ik girt with the wide belt
which might easily endow it with a
rigid appearance, care is taken that
the belt shall be draped with an ef
fect of studied carelessness. The
tunics, too, with which many of these
dresses are designed, serve to empha
size their picturesque character.
Masculine TIffect Avoided.
“Again, the waistcoat is often ar
ranged In the most unexpected man
ner. Sometimes It is a mere con
tinuation of the revere very cleverly
contrived. But, whatever be the idea,
it never savors of the severe, such as
distinguished the woman’s waistcoat
of twenty or thirty years ago. Some
times. too, the contrast between the
materials of the coat and the skirt
achieve picturesque results. And
never is the effect more striking than
when the skirt is of cloth and the
coat of white or cream tulle. The
taste for such a combination of ma
terials is essentially French,
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON. Sept. 13.—Prominent
among September brides will be Miss
Marion Glen (’oats, who is marrying
Major Parsons on the tenth. A truly
wonderful Parisian trousseau is be
ing prepared for her, the chief gem
train composed entirely of old French
lace.
Another charming creation is a
gown of fine suede cloth in delicate
champagne color. The skirt falls In
rich sculptured folds around the tall
figure of the wearer and opens slight
ly in a few' fan pleats in the front,
while the folds are caught together at
the sides with a silk cord.
Buttoning about the height of the
knees, the coat is of old blue char-
meuse lined with champagne cloth;
there Is a light fall of lace, of the
, color of clotted cream, on either side.
The sleeves are innocent of a shoulder
seam, but are broken at the elbow’
wMth a line of piping, the long cuff
being split open to show a doublure
of champagne cloth.
Over the square sailor collar is a
second collar of old blue charmeuse
bordered with a strip of skunk fur.
The corsage is a parchment lace with
a shaped band of blue charmeuse.
The bust Is partially hidden by a
dentelle; under this is faintly seen
an embroidery' of pale pink rosebuds
and del blue threaded ribbon.
A little round hat of black velvet,
which fits well down over the head,
framing the face, Is encircled with
blue feathers, ending in an upstand
ing plume tied near the base in tl e
new fashion.
Crown Prince of Germany, Wife Six Midinettes of Famous Paris
and Three Brothers Wander
ing Through Island.
Establishment Finish Fashion
able Gown in Tube.
1.
$500 a Pound Price Moonstones and Opals
Of White Human Hair To Deck Fair Ladies
Warm Titian G£>w Is Shade Next in
Demand, Say Toupee
Makers.
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON, Sept. 13.—Pure white
human hair i® quoted at $500 a pound.
“Give us hair,” cry the bald. “Give
us gold,” , retort those who possess
“woman's crowning glory.”
Some offer their locks by the foot
to the dealers; others demand $25,
$50—almost any extravagant price.
Many women sell their “combings’’ to
be made into toupees and fringes.
Next to snow-white hair that with
the warm “Titian glow" is rarest.
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON, Sept. 13.—Four of Em
peror William’s sons have invaded
England recently. They are in the
strictest incognito, which is just h®
well, else some ultra-jingoes would be
crying, “German spies.”
Crown Prince William and his vi-
'acious wife have been traveling for
a fortnight as the Cqunt and Countess
>f Hohenstein of Potsdam. They
stayed for some days at Clifton. The
Grown Princess also tried the famous
waters at Bath.
Prince August William and Prince
Eitel Frederick have been seen prom
enading the street® of Edinburgh,
while the youngest son, Joachim, is
also somewhere in Scotland.
London Sqciety Will Wear Oriental Th * Kaiser readily gave Ms sons
7 I permission to visit England on the
strict understanding, however, that
they were to go about as quietly as
possible, just like ordinary private cit
izens.
This was precisely what his sons
wanted, more especially the Crown
Prince, who. although appearing anti-
British when his countrymen expect
him to be so. is really devoted to
everything English.
Young Prince Joachim, who is the
liveliest of the four, positively refused
to Fiave any attendants, and his errat
ic movements have caused some anx
iety to- the German Embassy.
Charms, Too, of Amethyst, Tor
quoise and Onyx.
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON, Sept. 13.—Moonstones lit
early Celtic mountings of gold, silve
and platinum will be fashionable thk
season. Black opals are second fa
vorites. Pendants are taking tie
place of necklets. Earrings have loe
hanging lobes.
Women with a taste for the Oi-
ental are adorning themselves wlh
charms suspended from a long nek
chain. They are carved out
amethyst, turquoise, onyx, lais
lazuli and other stones, and repe-
sent peacocks and elephants nd
strange Eastern beasts.
THE WORLD OF MUSIC
Slant of the New
The majority of the new autumn
hats are squashed down over one
eye. generally the right one, and aro
raised high on the other side, show
ing a wide expanse of the hair. This
gives a very jaunty air to the hat,
which is accentuated by the curve
of the brim and the trimming. The
effect is rakish, that fact must be
admitted, but these hats are univer
sally becoming, for the large features
of the average American require this
slanting line across the front, with
the height at the side, tending tow
ard the buck. Whether the hats flare
on one side or not, they set low' on
tht* head.
The popular sailor shape is well to
the fore among the new hats, though
shown in many modifications. The
patent leather sailor brought out by
one of the leading Parts milliners is
shown as a morning and rough
wear hat at the best shops.
• • *
Rough-surfaced cottons closely re
semble their woolen prototypes, and
they are likely to he worn well into
autumn. Cotton sponge cloths, cot
ton plushes, cotton velvets, it is pre
dicted, will be worn throughout the
w inter.
Miss Mamie Hays, who has been
studying voice in New York for some
time, w r ill give a song recital at Cable
Hall on Tuesday evening, September
16, at 8:30 o’clock.
This announcement will be happily
received by those who have heard
Miss Hays sing. A beautiful and es
pecially pleasing program has been
arranged. Miss Hays ha® a colora
tura soprano voice of range and
sweetness. She will return to New
York to resume her studies at an
early date, and this will be the on’.v'
opportunity the music-loving publi"
will have of hearing her for some
time.
This recital is given for the benefit
of the Druid Hills Methodist Sunday
school, primary department. Ticket.3
may be had at Cable Hal>- and Phil
lips & Crew’s.
The following musical program will
be rendered at the First Baptist
Church to-day under the direction
of J. P. O’Donnelly, organist:
Morning.
Prelude.
“Our King.’’ Rotoli.
“The Lord Is My Strength,” Wooler j
—Mr. Solon Drukcnmiller.
Postlude.
Evening.
Prelude.
“I Lay My Sins on Jesus,” Schu
mann—Mrs. James H. Whitten an 1
choir.
“Hark! What Mean Those Holy-
Voices?” Verdi.
Postlude.
• • •
Mrs. Lottie Gray Browne is rapidly
convalescing. She expects to resume
her teaching at the Atlanta Institute
of Music and Oratory this week.
• * *
Walter P. Stanley, the celebrated
pianist and exponent of the Leschetiz-
ky method, expects to give several in
teresting recitals in the early phrt of
October.
• * •
Frederick Hall, of Philadelphia, or
ganist of Christ Church and a fa
mous choirmaster, will be soloist at
the free organ concert this afternoon
at the Auditorium.
• • •
Miss Partholomcw. organirt at St.
Mark, will play for the chorus which
sings at the Southern Christian Citi
zenship conference on the evening of
the 19th at. the Cleveland-Manning
Piano Company's concert hall. Miss
Bartholomew, one of the finest teach
ers of the city, has been spendirr hei
summer vacation in Indiana, ari re
turned la3t week for the wlntei sea
son.
• • •
Under the auspices of Motimer
Wilson, the general director f the
Conservatory of Music, a conc«t and
reception was given at Cabh Hall.
The affair was a most ervyable
event for the members of themusic
circles of the city.
• * •
An interesting program maied the
formal opening of Cox Collte and
Conservatory of Music on Tursday
morning. A number of notetspeak-
er® made short addresses an a mu
sical ’program was rendere under
the direction of Mrs. Sallie Qc Stan
ton. The artists taking prt were
Kuhrt Mueller, pianist; Chars Shel
don, organist; Mrs. Grace L* Brown
Townsend, vocalist; Alexaier von
Skibinski, violinist.
Bagpipe Craze to
Come to America
Englishmen Have Taken Up Scot
tish Instruments and Visitors From
U. S. Follow Example.
Special Cable to The American.
PARIS, Sept. 13.—On a bet six mid
inettes, belonging to a famous Paris
dressmaking establishment, cut out
and made a fashionable dress during
a journey of twenty minutes in a
tube train. The dress is of pink chif
fon, designed in the latest style, with
a draped tunic and lavish ornamen
tation.
The design was submitted to the
midinettes as they boarded a train on
the Metropolitan Railway at the Porte
d’Orleans station. As soon as the
train started the six girls fell to
w-ork. Each had a particular task.
One of them made a sleeve, another
the other sleeve, another the bodice,
a fourth the skirt, while the fifth and
sixtjp affixed hooks and eyes and at
tached trimmings.
Half way through the last tunnel
the final stitch was put in. and as the
train drew up at the terminal sta
tion at the Porte de Clignacourt the
girls stepped from their seats and
held out the finished dress with a
shout of triumph.
TTIP SASHES APPEAR.
Hip sashes appear on most of the
new- dresses; they offer an oppor
tunity for introducing color or con
trast of shades and materials m the
dresses.
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON, Sept. 13.—There is a
craze to learn to play the inspiring if
not always tuneful bagpipes, and
Americans are among the most eager
to master Scotland’s national musi
cal instrument.
The Prince of Wales set the fash
ion. He learned the bagpipes at
Oxford and now' delights his Scottish
friends by skirling “The Flowers of
the Forest” and "The Land of the
Seal.”
"Usually I have about thirty pupil®
a year, but at the moment I have
as many as sixteen at once,” said
O. H. Starck, the pipe-major of the.
London Irish Rifles, who makes and
teaches the bagpipes.
“An American told me the other
day I ought to go out there. ‘There’s
a fortune for you there Just now’,’
he said. ‘People are crazy to learn
the bagpipes and to hear them
played.’ ”
llll
It’s Always Good!
UNCLE
SAM
BREAD
Your Grocer Sells It!
llll
Oraige Blossoms in October
When You Perspire
Use HID
Keeps Your Skin
Pure and Sweet
25c
All Jacobs’St ores
Foreword
It i> not the purpose of the mumigeiuciit of the HOTEL
A VS LEY to overrate or exaggerate its attractiveness, but rather
to keep within the hounds of conservatism. One visit to the lobby,
cafes and rathskeller will give one an idea of the lieauty of these
rooms that suggest, only refinement and elegance.
She dint's each evening
*a 1:« cart
that “smart”
a swagger girl is she."
A Chinese Honeymoon.
Ydele Ritchie’s song asserts that “smart” girls prefer a la
carte dinners or sappers.
The Hotel Ansley should lie the mecea of "smart** folk. It’s
a la carte service is “so good.’*
The management has engaged Mrs. Frank Pearson. Soprano
Soloist, after the theater Monday evening. September 15.
You Are
Invited
QUALITY -
OUR AIM
to attend the showing of
Imported Gowns, includ
ing PAQUIN, DRECOL,
POIRET and BERNARD
models.
This showing will be
held
MONDAY, TUESDAY
and WEDNESDAY,
SEPT. 15, 16 and 17.
After the three days open
ing the models will be sold
at actual cost.
Models Sent on Approval
J. S. FIELD
34 1-2 Whitehall St.
will be in demand
Anl so will be Wedding Cards that
areartistically executed. It takes, be
sides the expert Engraver, the close
stident of Dame Fashion. We are
bch, and this is why our engraving
isdegance itself. It is our business to
kiow the size of cards, styles of en-
gaving, phraseology, arrangement,
irdeed everything which pertains to
tis line of work. We tender our
cistomers the benefit of our judg
ment in matters of this kind, and
ach order receives careful personal
ttention. We will be glad to answer
ny questions by correspondence,
ubmit samples of appropriate forms,
ar give advice in any matter that
may be of service to our patrons.
Wedding invitations shipped prompt
ly. Samples free.
J. P. Stevens Engraving Co.
SOCIETY ENGRAVERS
Atlanta, Ga.