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Ihe >e" ••Pierrette” Effect
in Broad Fur Bands.
The New Close
Clinging Coats The
Add No
Breadth to tl
Plump—Th
New Fur
Scarves
HHI I and Purple
Wtimj Moleskins
their lines and
||Kjggteij& how delightfully
they lend them*
ll solves to the fiu-
f •’Hky up's within there
Met The strikingly
beautiful ermine
and broadtail gar-
Jr ment is suitable
for reception or
sf'. 'vening wear. The
000^ upper section is
made of the fas
cinating tailless ermine. The muff is
also of this fur. The lower part of
the coat is, in a way, a deep shaped
flounce attached to the upper sec
tion. The whole affair is curiously
draped from the shoulders. Tho
collar is a strip of the fur finished
with a heavy tassel. This collar is
just twisted once about the neck, in
much the same manner that one
would twist a hunting stock.
This wrap looks Its best when
worn by a tall, slender woman. Mrs.
Edward B. McLean, of Washington,
for whom I designed this superb
coat, wears it most gracefully.
In the picture shown here the hat
Is a stnall boyish affair of the black
broadtail Mrs. McLean, however,
usually tops it with a smart black
velvet, bat decorated with aigrettes.
Equally chic, but on different lines,
is the dyed moleskin wrap worn over
a dull purple crepe de chine
flounced with the moleskin. As I
have said in earlier letters, the
dyed furs in light colors are effec
tive when used as trimming, but only
dark colors should he used Iu the
making of coats.
Exquisite “Lucile” Costume of Moleskin
Dyed Rich Purple.
L ady duff-gor
DON, the famous
"Lucile” of Lon- j
Jon, and foremost cre
ator of fashions in the 'Kite
world, Writes each week flH
the fashion article for this
newspaper, presenting all
that is newest and best in
styles for well-dressed
women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris
establishment brings her into close
touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American
establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39
West Fifty-seventh street. New York
Moleskin takes a
very rich blue or
purple. That shown
here is purple. The
fur collar and cuffs,
the muff and the
band outlining the
coat are of blue fox.
The hat is moleskin
Tn making, or.
rather, in creating
this quaint coat of
a slender debutante.
I used a deep shade
of blue duvetyn. The
.sleeves fastened
closly about the
wrists, are the very
chic Babst sleeves,
and. like the collar,
the cuffs and muff
are of rich brown
ing bit of color is
given the fur hat by
the orange apples
just in the front.
It seems to me
half way down
her back.
However, there
•re some who
literally fold
t h e m s e 1 ves iu
in their boas or
scarves, and I
am sending you
a picture of a
matched skunk
scarf which ex
plains this very
new and modish
fashion. The stole,
is broad and flat;
it is made entire
ly of skunk fur
matched in a
curious way and
folded across the
wearer’s body
in the front; the two ends are fas
tened together well below the waist
in the back. It is all finished with
dark brown velvet frills.
The muff matches the wrap, but
shows no velvet frills.
And it’s time to write of other
things, of hats, for instance, and
veils, and I have good news from
Paris about both these fascinating
Xew'est
Fur
Costume
of Matched
Skunk
Scarves and
Dark
Brown
Velvet.
By Lady Duff Gordon
(“Lucile”)
W ' HAT woman can resist the
lure of the fur coat! And
never were fur-trimmed
ouis 1 and fur wraps so luxurious as
,;kh are to-day. Tho new coats,
made of the lovely, ever-so-supple
skins, are draped in all manner of
'.ays. There is no longer any rea-
.'Oii for the stout woman to dread
wearing a coat even of sable or
mink, for, under the new treatment
of the pelts, the coats are made to
cling closely to the figure, and no
longer do they add great breadth to
the wearer.
Time was when the wearer of a
fur coat looked opulent and lux
urious, but stout. Look at the two
fur coats I am sending you this week
and you can readily see how graceful
the maddening devices of the taco
veil.
The butterfly is very lightly
worked in black chenille on either
black or faintly pink net and, ‘ of
course, its most correct, or, at any
rate, most captivating, position will
be close by one corner of a red,
curved mouth—how many there will
then be to envy that happily placed
butterfly!
The “beauty spot” veil—with its
single black velvet patch—is also in
high favor just now on account of
its similar and distinctly provocative
possibilities, and 1 foresee for it a
much more continued and universal
vogue than for that other novelty,
the “Harem” veil, which, as its name
suggests, takes the yashmak for its
model. For just over the eyes it is of
the clearest and finest net, th©
meshes there being rounded, while
here on its broad bordering ofi
square-meshed net many little black
velvet spots are showered. So that
the woman with fine eyes as her only
attraction will for once fear no
rivalry from the most perfectly
featured^ 1 beauty whose orbs are
somewhat less bright and magnetic.
And now as regards other peo
ple’s doings and dresses, in connec
tion with the latest black and white
craze. I notice any number of new
models are being made i nthe soft
est possible black moire, the skirts
being draped in many different ways
but with always the same resulting
effect of silhouetting the figure with
even more than the usual closeness.
One rather charming and quite nov
el scheme is the arranging of the
knee-deep tunic in a series of deep
points or scallops. The underskirt
being, as a matter of fact, pleated,
though you only discover that it is
not quite plain.
'Then you look into it closely or
when the wearer walks, as the folds
are held down so closely and flatly.
As regards a finish for the corsage,
a double and upstanding frill of
white tulle is most frequently and
fascinatingly in evidence and is
often carried right down to the
waistline, narrowing as it goes. And
in between there .will he crossed-
over folds of the soft white fabric,
against which there may well stand
out in bold and beautiful relief a
pink malmaison carnation, or a
white gardenia guarded by its glos
sy green leaves. This particular
and pretty flower—a great favorite
of mine always—being the chosen
and chic trimming for some of the
latest Paris creations in the way of
hats.
One which I saw and admired the
other day was of the now most fav
ored medium size, the brim taking
a hold upward sweep at the left
side and coming well down over the
other ear and eye. It was in quite
a new and very smootli and shiny
make of black straw', and the gar
denias were set midway about the
fairly high crown, full-blown blos
soms, buds and leaves being verv
artistically grouped together on an
encircling fold of black moire rib-
articles of feminine
apparel.
At last the black
velvet hat has a rival
| —a formidable and
fascinating riva 1—
I which is going to re
lieve the world c?
women from wliat
I was rapidly becom
ing a mania of mo-
■ notony.
f. The appearance —
| or. rather, the re-
1/ \ appearance—of black
'tjj | panne as a millinerial
material is really very
welcome, even on the score of va
riety. But it further has lightness
of effect, and actual weight also, to
recommend it, and somehow, too, its
aoftly shining surface gives a special
smartness not only to the hat, but
also to the whole toilette, and keeps
this smartness unimpaired, even
after a long morning’s shopping, or
walking, or driving, which would re
duce the black velvet hat to a dis
figuring monument of dust!
That is indeed—and of course—
the one disadvantage of the black
velvet hat—it is a veritable magnet
for every speck of dust and it also
has a fatal facility for getting shiny
and shabby at the edges.
You see we can dare to realize
and admit its ults now that W'e
have the chance of choosing some
thing else—and sometimes better, too!
Very unfair, perhaps—but also very
human!
And really the new black panne
hats are irresistibly attractive. They
are always most moderate in size
and their little brims should take a
slight boat-shaped curve upward at
the right side. The turn-up on the
left side is no longer the essence of
smartness. And they are trimmed
in any number of different ways,
though the general effect arrived at
is of extreme simplicity.
For instance, just one butterfly,
with gold-dusted wings, will have
alighted by some happy accident on
one side of the crown of such a hat,
whose possessor will of a surety be
so well pleased with the resulting
piquancy—and admiration—of her
headgear that she will he not one
whit envious of her possibly more
fortunate —- and certainly more
moneyed—rival whose panne hat is
Lucile” Coal of Ermine and
Broadtail. Little Hat of
Black Broadtail.
as I travel from
London to Paris and Paris to Switz
erland that while everyone wears
furs no two people wear them in the
same fashion. And no one wears
them in the former orthodox man
ner. Verily, there are times when
milady looks as though she would
lose her lovely scarves, so delieatelj
are they placed over one shoulder or
ecrets of Beau,
The Most Famous
Living Beauty
How to Make the Mouth
Beautiful.
W HILE the mouth is oue of
the most beautiful and tell
tale features, it is also oue
of the most neglected. It has more
bad habits than the eyes, is more
sensitive than the complexion, more
susceptible to training than the nose,
of far less sturdy fibre than the hair.
The Ups require educating, and 1
shall tell you to-day how to educate
them. It is well at the beginning to
erect the danger signals. Don’t
fall into the bad habit of pressing
the lips firmly together. Persons of
especially determined character arp
likely to press the lips firmly to
gether to express their determi
nation. Others assume that virtue
il’ they have it not and imitate their
dnn-willed friends and enemies in
tliis respect.
But from the standpoint of beauty
it is always a mistake to firmly close
the lips. They should be as lightly
closed as possible. As gently as one
rose petal meets another the upper lip
should lie upon the lower. "Make
this one of your beauty resolutions:"
’I will never tightly close my lips,’
an Italian author wrote in the Mid
dle Ages. Ah, yes. They were in
terested in the theme of how to be
come beautiful and how to remain so
even then. “The lips should seldom
be actually closed. To be lovely the
mouth should habitually disclose five
teeth,” advised the great Italian.
There is. of course, a sani
tary side of the subject, and on that
side of beauty we show ourselves
wiser than the ancients and the
beauty culturists of the Middle Ages.
Disease germs enter the body, not
through the nose, which is protected
by a hairy barricade that snares in
truders, but by the mouth, which has