Newspaper Page Text
* D
IT KARST’S
RTTNPAY AMERICAN. ATLANTA. OA.. SUNDAY, DECEMBER 21. 1013.
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By MME. HAUTE MONDE.
W EARING tli? hat sllkhtly to on? tibbon outlining thi- n?rk amt. per-
i„..'omlr.e to «ome h »i>*. ‘"liring the sleeve. A few
1» > * r . . . rhinestone or pearl buttons serve to
faces, thone avIUi a « 1 . close and to trim them at the same
fun and coquetry In their expression tlm-
famous Duchess ot
ttie width
to the
present fashion ot
ft-aided that
has an
natural
all
Gainsborough’*
Devonshire is an install
of the brim adding PidU al H
whole. But the
pa^Mh^nam'w b'rlm"points , to, the
zenith, while Its a-ntt poaes portion
rests upon the ehouldei, is • 1[
grotesque rather than P
especially when the wearer
sir of so'emn gloom as her
expression—many of us ha\e
clever woman once wiote. -
cry in a rose-colored hat The
greater includes the I???.,, _ h
glum In a one-sided hat. 1 h ’ u f,
"a a fashion of the hour tn 1 " Mr 1 1 '™
■o. no one need u<> It. The m i ‘
aged woman usually wears a look of
anxious severity that sometimes
amounts to scowling. It means short
sight or a fear of looking loo am
.tie. that Is all; but to untie this
fearsom. expression w ith a hat «tan< -
ing on Its own brim. Is to make
gartorial mistake of the first order,
.Some of the hats bordered
round the up-turned brim with a
rurhed ribbon are very pretty, satire
baa attacked the silly plume without
banishing it from the smart hat I he
comic papers show It thrusting 1 t»el
Into the human eye, tickling intolera
bly the human cheek and ear, and
advertising the foolishness of tne
Wearers lr. many unmistakable ways
• • •
Ths very soft brocades and moires
now used for dresses fall in graceful
folds about the figure, and such ma
terials as eharmeuse, silk voile and
foulard are In gneat favor. These are
eyed to exquisite shades of amethyst,
rose, green, blue, citron anti mauve.
The most effective gowns are made
In one though the three-piece dress Is
■till In favor. A tall girl In rose-
colored brocade looked well of a re
cent opera niglfi. Usually the hack
of the gown has a wide, fiat pleat that
folds underneath at either side. 1S>
the tailor's art these are pressed ab
solutely fiat so that there Is no ap
pears™ of unnecessary fullness, ttnd
yet, when the wearer walks, there is
sufficient width ror freedom of mo
tion This seems to solve the prob
lem as to the dividing line between
unnecessary width and the hideously
unbecoming tightness that disfigures
so many otherwise well-dressed wom
en at tile present moment,
• • •
The unlimited display of stocking
in the tango has given rise to the
"jeweled” garter, worn immediately
below the knee, and recalling Tom
lli od s "Miss Kllmansegg and Her
Precious Deg," to display which ne
cessitated a very particular type of
skirl, shorter on one side than even
Diana's. Those who have seen the
tango danced will realize what abun
dant opportunity it affords for the
display of stockings, even more at the
lack than In from. This should
cause a good boom for fine silk stock
ing makers. The transparent ones
are becoming more and more reveal
ing with every week. Tango stock
ings are black or otherwise dark in
tint unless worn with white or light
gowns, when they accord with the
tone of these or are in gold color.
* • *
Coiffures are not worn so close
ly coiled round the head as they were
a few weeks ago. Sometimes one
gee* a conical coiffure, rising very
high, but kept close and narrow be
hind the ears, which are always cov
ered. Another style has the hair lift
ed in a high billow on the top of the
head, supported by a "giraffe” comb.
Smaller combs retain the hair behind
the ears, leaving enough to cover the
latter. The forehead fringe is still
seen and the chignon retains its
vogue, partly owing to its usefulness
In showing the diamond combs so
much in fashion.
• • •
Kid and leather shoes are despised
by the fashionable, though they are
glad enough to fall back upon them In
muddy weather and for wearing at
race meetings. On other occasions
the shoes are made of very expen
sive materials, often richly embroid
ered. Even silk brocade is ornamen
ted with stitchery for this purpose,
and sometimes jeweled as well. The
fashionable heel is still extremely
high ami it, too,'is occasionally em
broidered and Jeweled, though the
favorite Is striped black and white,
or gray and white, or black and red.
As to stockings, they are so much In
evidence at present owing to the re
markable styles of dress that, us a
natural consequence, they are of the
most luxurious character. Striped or
tartan silk and wool mixed are worn
In the morning, but in the afternoon
open-work lace, silk or thread are
the only wear.
• * •
Feminine to a degree are the sim
ple blouses of net and chiffon that
are used on so many of the afternoon
anti evening frocks. Very often their
sole adornment consists of a few
tucks or plaits and a narrow band of
Now tls.it I he art of dressing has
become a vital thing, and the fashion
for vivid colors so dominant, wom
en see what can be done by a Judi
cious adjustment of brilliant tones.
No longer need artists deplore the
lack of coloring in women’s dress,
for the feminine sex have advanced
too fr.r along the line of color educa
tion to return now to drab tones.
This fset is clearly demonstrated In
the evening wraps.
one beauty Is a proof that a woman
of limited Income ran dress effective
ly at reasonable outlay. This wrap
la characterized by long graceful
lines and drapery, and is developed
In chiffon velours. It Is a model that
may be had In various pretty shades,
this particular example being of rich
petunia hue, and adorned with ring
ed buttons of the fabric. The low-
cut kimono sleeve Is set into a seam,
and at the extreme point of the long
collar th > wrap fastens with a twist
ed motif made of the material.
The linings of these evening wraps
are in many instances as beautiful
as the garments themselves, a fact
which adds considerably to their In
terest. For instance, a model of rose
du Barrl corded crepe i» turned back
at the hem, with the lining of Pais
ley-patterned black and white chif
fon. The fullness in the folds that
gives the wrap its drapery in front
1m caught at the back with a motif of
Greek design curried out In pipings
of tlu* fabric. Collar and cuffs of
skunk add still another note of rich
ness to the wrap. In a coat of .Jap
anese blue plush the tightened effect
at the hern of the garment is effected
at the hack hv a broad band of hand
some silk embroidery on gold plush.
The consummation of this gorgeous
color scheme lies in an entire skin of
red fox worn carelessly across the
arms and fastened on the left shoul
der.
Sashes to the
Rescue
Very beautiful, indeed, are the wide
sashes of gorgeous colored ribbon or
thick-ribbed silk, with the colors
woven In broad stripes, that have jus:
made their appearance.
These are arranged to wind once
round the waist, cross at the back
and fasten in front, loosely knotted at
one side.
The ends are finished with black
braid sconces and huge silk or ohe-
nlllo tassels in the same shadings as
the ribbon.
One lovely one was of blue, cerise
and black striped silk finished with
long, heavy tassels In the like ton-
Ings, combined with a touch of black
and orange.
Some again have one tassel In all
| black, the other many colored, in
every case the end of the silk being
[drawn Into black braid or velvet I
miters.
These sashes make an invaluable 1
addition to the wardrobe, as they ran j
he hastily adjusted over a black satin
or velvet frock with excellent result,
Just giving a final note of smartness
that Immediately stamps the attire as
something out of the ordinary.
* • •
Millinery Hies
Every established rule has its ex
ception. No sooner did the black hat
become general than many women at
once made a point of wearing colored
millinery. . Th la oppoalt U
(If we may be allowed to use the
term) started at Etretat. where one of
the society leaders appeared at the
Casino in a violet velvet hat.
This becoming model was copied
from the First Empire at a period
when it bore a resemblance to a
jockey’s cap. The up-to-date Paris
milliner has, however, broadened tne
crown and the brim. The latter she
has made varj broad at the back lend
turned up in order to show the circu
lar pleating In violet tulle
A band and an embroidered buckle
In similar velvet surround the waist
and the same material forms the
shoes over violet silk stockings.
* • •
Pearls are now the most fashion
able jewels, and women buyers take
care to secure a shade to match their
complexion.
"Dark or yellow pearls," says a
pearl expert "become dark women,
while light pearls are worn to better
advantage by women of fair complex
ion. During recent years the demand
for pearls has Increased* because the
ostent&tiougnees of diamonds and
rubies often offends the taste. A
woman can easily wear $500,000
worth of pearls in excellent taste, but
diamonds worth $100,000 would be
very obtrusive."
BLACK(HARMEU8E COSTUME
LAST WORD IN TANGO GOWNS
liss Winifred March
CHAPPED
SKINS NEED
| RH. JOHN MARSHALL SLA-[
TON, wife of our Governor,
who is
ning matrons
her exquisite
gowns. Her
one of the most stun*
of society, is noted for
taste In selecting her
•lothes are always no-
NEW SILHOUETTE CONQUERS
PARIS WORLD Of fASHION
Filmy Black Silk Now Affected in the Afternoon
With Thinnest of Lingerie.
ticeable for their perfect fit and in
dividual charm, no matter what the
occasion may be. I saw her the other
evening with Mrs. Morris Brandon,
when she was beautifully gowned In
a Larisse model of gold and blue bro
cade chiffon, the drapery of the skirt
held in place with two little animals
called fitch, the newest thing in fur.
With this creation she wore some
superb diamonds in the way of a
necklace, the central stone of which
represented a small fortune in itself.
Mrs. Brandon was so quaint in her
little (for you know how dainty a
creature she Is, and that word fits her
garments perfectly) cream and violet
charmeuse, the violet being intro
duced in the drapery s»o that it
reached her toes. Her slippers were
of the violet satin, too. I hear that
violet is the last word in color now
and royal purple is also very popular.
Speaking of royal purple, did you
see that purple gown at a recent
function that one of the visiting
women wore? She must have thought
she would show the people here some
sights—and vhe did! More than they
are accustomed to seeing. However,
her slippers were exquisite with their
heels of rhinestones embedded in the
purple satin, and everything was as It
should be. What more could we ask?
• * *
I HARDLY know r whether I am sane
or not from this run of Christmas
shopping. I set my mind to get
this for Sally, and when I come to
the counter where such articles are
sold, the pretty girl behind says to
me! "We are out of that" and "We
wljl have a fresh supply to-morrow.
Come back and I will love to sell you
then." That is the hard part of it.
You have to go back, not once, but
time and again, and you wear your
self out getting nothing. 1 hear a lot
of people saying that they are sim
plifying their Christmas gifts, but
somehow’ when the great day comes I
always feel bad when I find that
someone has sent me something much
nicer than I planned for her. That’s
the most miserable feeling in the
world.
I enjoy making personal thing? for
the girls, blit how to please the men!
They grumble about everything. 1
heard one man the other day on the
subject of Christmas shopping. He
said he has ceased going home to
luncheon, as he is sure to find his wife
and daughters out, and when at night
fall they return from town so tired
they can hardly drag their feet Into
the dining room, the only topic of
conversation Is what they are buying,
Interspersed with hints to find out I
what he wants for Christmas, when 1
if they really knew they would be i
surprised, for it Is nothing more than j
a stocking hanging from the mantel- j
piece in the living room, filled with t
"goodies,” just as when he was a kid. I
* * *
S OME stories are hard to tell with
out giving away the heroine al
together, and then I have an
enemy for life. Heroines don’t like to |
be found out. This girl is one of
the best known of the debutante set
It seems she was left to do the pack
ing for the family before leaving for a
trip herself. The idea occurred to her
that she could make Christmas mon
ey by having a rummage sale and in
viting the servants In the neighbor
hood to buy. This she did. She sold
for $7 her father’s heavy overcoat
that he probably will need sometime
this winter. Yet I do believe if he
hbd stayed right here in Atlanta he
could easily have done "without it, as
cold weather seems to be still far
from making friends with Atlanta
this year. At any rate, she made over
$100 on the sale, and she hasn’t bro
ken the news to father yet. She is an
enterprising young woman, though,
and he ought to value such a business
capacity as she displayed.
btisv constantly tryihg to always have j
a fresh pair of white ones ready for ‘
each party.
Now the young lady is very much
put out. One evening she went to the
theater with her best beau, wearing
hef black gloves They were seated
near the back of the box when sud
denly she felt him catch hold of her
hand. She tried to pull away, but he
held It too tightly. After pleading with
him softly, she told him that she was
afraid that someone would see. He re
plied, nroraptly: "No, they won’t, and
you know that. Isn’t that why you
are wearing black gloves—so that I
can hold your hand without It being
visible on my coat? It’s awfully
sweet of you, Gertie." Now she has
gone back to white coverings for her
hands, cost w hat they may.
* * *
D ID you ever hear of a trousseau
party? All of us have been In
vited at one time or another to
visit a bride’s home for the pleasure
of seeing displayed rfround the pretty
boudoir the daintiest lingerie and the
gow’ns designed for the "dearest little
girl In the world.” However, this
trousseau party was different from
the sordid run of things. The hostess
was a handsome widow, who had de
cided to try her luck again in the
matrimonial line. She invited by en
graved invitations at least 50 friends
who came at the appointed time. The
guests were ushered into the room
where the costliest garments were on
exhibition. Then the bride-elect pro
ceeded to demonstrate and one gown
after another she donned for the in
spection of those present. I am told
that each bit of trimming used on the
Huffy things was the work of the
bride herself, a fact which seems re
markable when there was such an
elaborate lay-out.
* * *
*T*HERE*S a certain Atlanta girl
I who cast her bread on her wa
ters and who was duly reward - 1
ed. Certainly there is a reward. Yoj
know the girl, a very young girl with
pretty blonde hair. You know her
well, and how ready she is to do good,
and to help other people along. Not
long ago the opportunity came to her
to do something for a girl she had 1
never Been or heard of.
The latter lived in a small Geo.\;ia
town. She read the papers and knew
tjjat our charitable friend moved al
ways in society, going to dances anr.
dinners and parties. So she wrote to
Atlanta and to our friend. She was
going to take part in a school enter
tainment and wanted a suitable frock,
and wouldn’t the Society Girl nlease
let her have something to use for tbs
occasion.
Very sweetly our friend sent a
dainty dancing frock that she had
worn once or twice. Then came a re
ply in the form of a picture of the
young actress. She was so pretty
and so appealing that the Atlanta gi:*i
was glad.
But that wasn’t all. Only the other
day there came from the other girl
an enormous box of the biggest, meat-
left paper-shell pecans you ever saw’.
"Merry Christmas!" was on the box.
And our friend was very glad, in
deed.
CUTICURA
SOAP
Cuticura Soap and Cuti-
cura Ointment keep the
skin clear, soft and beau
tiful under all conditions
of outdoor exposure in
cidental to winter sports.
Cuticura Soap and Ointment sold throughout tha
world. Liberal sample of each mailed free, with 32-p.
book. Address •'Cuticura.” Dept. 24Ci, Boston.
mrMen who Hhave and shampoo with Cuticura
Soap will find it beet tor skin and scalp.
Special Cable to The American.
BARIS, Dec 20 -Christmas, whicn
is almost upon us, sees the complete
victory of the new silhouette, which
has conquered slowly but surely,
crushing all life out of our poor little
revolt. We neither grumble, smile
By LA RACONTEUSE.
Special Cable to The American.
LONDON, Dec. 20. — Nearly every
smart dressmaker in London is busy
creating tango gowns, and some of
the prettiest are being made for sev
eral young actresses for private wear.
One which has just been made for
Miss Mabel Russell is charming as
well as original. It is fashioned of
black charmeuse. split up a little in
the front, and has an immensely long
train which springs from the back
and side and tapers to the narrowest
point poUMble.
This long tiuin is caught up to the
hand with a little loop and has a
XMAS RATES
over N., C. & St.
L. Ry. and W. & A. R. R.
Apply any Agent.
wonderfully graceful effect with the
swing and dip of the figure when the
wearer is dancing. It is lined with
the softest of black picot edged crepe
de chine, which is a very important
point, as naturally the doublur is
much in e\ Idencc.
Over this is a fascinating crisp lit
tle crinoline tunic of gold net, worked
in a handsome design of gold foil,
edged with gold lace. The little tunic
stands well out on either side, parting
in the center, while over it is drawn a
drapery of black charmeuse. This is
caught up under the belt and turned
over In a kind of Neapolitan point,
which Is drawn into a sheath if
: bright drake**.neck blue plaited skirt,
j bordered with gold. From this falls
a huge blue silk tassel worked in gold.
The belt Is a lovely combination of
the palest crocus yellow and shaded
drake’s-neck blue crepe, the colors
melting into one another, while above
j it rises a kimono .-f pale gold tulle
i over blonde lace sleeves.
nor make sarcastic comments any
longer, but are once more the meek,
willing slaves of the whims of la
mode.
Without a murmur we are wearing
sloping shoulders, square waists, bal
loon hips and everything else which
we ridiculed and shook our heads at
six months ago.
The new line has conquered. It no
lohger rules only In the clinging ma
terials* of evening dresses, but every
where. in the duvetyn of the prom
enade dress, as In the velvet and
molree of the tango gown.
The new silhouette is everybody’s.
You may even buy it ready made in
the big department stores and at i
once submit to the law of transmu
tation. That is to say, that you may
buy a gown cut in such a way that I
the moment you put it on you become j
Just as sloping at top. as square in
the waist and as narrow at the bot
tom as the new line demands, and,
what is more, if you look at yourself |
In the mirror you smile contentedly
\md feel proud and happy to be up J
to date and smart and you pretend
not to hear the thin little voice that
whispers into your ear: "My dear
girl, don’t you see what a monkey
you are?"
We are all In black, filmy, breezy
black silk In the afternoon now in or- i
der not to get overheated in the hot
rooms where we drlnx tt*a or dance.
In private houses or one of the nu
merals restaurants made into tango
ballrooms.
The tango bacillus runs riot In our
veins and the bridge tables are de- j
serted. for it is not only the young j
people who are dancing. Oh, no! j
The modern grandmother is not old
or backward: she dances tango pas- j
slonately, happy at this new form of
eXercijae. which is far more pit tsant
than the tedious gymnastics, and the I
fashionable doctor who tells his older [
patients that tango Is an ideal pre- I
server of youth, Is a wise man who
knows what is expected of him.
In the afternoon, then, tout le
monrie is dressed for tango. Rlack
predominates, but you may wear ra
ven blue, brown or elephant gray
The skirt - short and Mas ed to th*- *1
knee, because without this any move
ment would be impossible. The waist
is made from mallne or lace, through
which you s,e» the silk ribbons of the
lingerie, and it is trimmed with lace
ruches or narow fur edgings and in
the center of your belt, which is very
low, you wear an enormous velvet
flower In the strongest shade of red,
green or yellow. These fairy flowers
are le dernier cri of fashion and the
a mincing speed they shoot up in the
hothouses of la mode.
To finish ouV tango costume, we
put on very thin silk stockings, in the
color of the gown and exceedingly
high-heeled shoes, tied with ribbons
around the ankle. Our sleeves are
short and we wear gloves to the el
bow. in dull light colors, and little
bags of velvet with monograms in
diamonds.
P'
INK roses! Have you ever won
dered why I so constantly speak
of them? One person has decid
ed that it must be rny favorite flower,
and mighty glad I was when up came
the loveliest box of them one day-
last week. But it wasn’t my birth
day, and Christmas hadn’t come yet,
and for several (lays I was kept in
mystery as to why she should have
sent them. Finally I learned that,
even though she was a happy mar
ried woman, she had been up to some
mischief, and was afraid that I would
hear of it and tell you. A young gir!
friend told her she was going to tell
me about the fun and she replied, “I
don’t care if you do. I have already-
bribed her." So that is the why of
the roses. *
* * *
% I ANY of the girls in town read
what Madame Haute Monde has
* 1 to say about sty’les every Sun
day. and as a result one girl was
brave enough to adopt the fashion of
wearing black gloves. Of course, she
was very willing, as it keeps a girl
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73\ WHITEHALL
Over A. & P. Tea Store Main 2599
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