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The New
Fashion’s Latest Crazes— 7 he Leopard-Skin
Tunic, f/*e Scarf Train, the Cutaway
Coat of Flowered Velvet and
the Waist less Gown
L ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous “Lucile”
of London, and foremost creator of fashions
in the world, writes each week the fashion
article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest
and best in styles for well-dressed women.
I -ady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings
her into close touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon’s American establishment is at
Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New
York.
Afternoon Costume of Purple
„ .Charmeuse and Flowered
Velvet, Showing the New
Half Coat.
By Lady DUFF GORDON
(‘“Lucile”)
I AM constrained to sing a song of
ribbons this week, for never were
these fabrics more sumptuous,
and, needless to say, more expensive
than this season. Verily has the old-
time ribbon been glorified, thus keep
ing pace with every other thing w hich
goes to make milady of the wardrobe
more fascinating.
But before continuing my song of
ribbons I must describe some very
novel and /interesting costumes
which I recently saw and some which
I designed for two of my American
clients.
For one of my designs I chose a
matronly fabric, a delicious taupe
brocaded chiffon. .The entire lower
part of the gow n, from the high gir
dle, is merely a clinging drapery of
this supple fabric. With the broad
ening effect from the knees to the
•waist line, the still popular peg top
effect Is produced.
An unusual touch of color is given
by the velvet band of French blue
velvet, outlining the upper edge of
the drapery. This color is also intro
duced in the girdle and on the chiffon
bodice, which is, as you can see in
the picture, develop#*! in two shades
of chiffon and in the simplest manner
possible.
The headdress worn with this cos
tume is novel and becoming. The
narrow gold cord round the head
joins in front under a jeweled pend
ant. The high feather is spring set
in a jeweled border.
In my second design I depended
on graceful draperies and delicately
colored fabrics rather than on in
tricacy of detail and design. The
skirt is one of the hemless affairs
which are so ingenue and dainty.
The wonderful scarf drapery hanging
from the bodice and caught in front
under the jeweled ornament, is mar
velously becoming to the slender
young bride for whom it was created.
The costume is developed in shades
of shell pink chiffon.
I am delighted to be able to send
jfou a photograph of this startling
new leopard gown. The under robe
is of a tawny orange char-
meuse, the train cut square.
The overskirt is leopard skin,
combined with fragile lace.
Verily the two extremes, lace
and fur, meet in this cos
tume. The skin is very sup
ple and drapes exquisitely.
The sash end to of satin, the darker
shade of orange, finished with a black
silk tassel. The bodice and the tiny
sleeves are of the same fragile lace
as the tunic drapery.
To carry out the barbaric note, the
head drees is a remarkable affair of
topazes and pearls.
Just the costume for a bride’s
trousseau is the tobacco brown char
meuse and velvet of which I am also
sending you a picture. The cutaway
coat is of brown velvet, flowered with
large brown and tan pansies. The in
teresting surplice collar, turned back
to show the neck, is of the brown
charmeuse. There nre the long sleeves
and the sloppy effect under the arms
which Dame Fashion Inexorably de
mands Just now.
I particularly like the brown velvet
hat worn with costume. The high
aigrettes and the wreath round the
edge of the brim are brown osprey
feathers.
And now I may sing my soqg of
ribbons, and I am sure that you will
agree with me when I tell you that
■'glorious" and gorgeous are the only
words to describe them.
They are interwoven and broid-
ered as with gold and silver and
further and frequently brocaded
with half a dozen different and dar
ingly contrasted colours. And of
course, all this increase of beauity,
fits in well with the new schemes
for their use and display.
In fact it was just because of their
fore-ordained and frequent appear
ance as long ended sashes, deeply
swathed waist bands drawn into a
big bow in front; encircling band
ings about the knees and any num
ber of other new and decorated
devices, that ribbons have arrived at
their present pitch of perfection.
They are not only fair to outward
view, but, positively, just us at
tractive—in a stylishly different way
—when, for purposes of looping, or
draping, or just mere contrast, they
are, literally, turned inside out.
Of such two-sided decorativeness
is one typical twelve-inch-wide
satin sash ribbon, where great
golden flowers blaze out on a back
ground of other blurred blossoms
in rose and cerise, soft blue and
green, orange and flame, vivid sap
phire and emerald, purple and am
ber, a flnal half-inch edging of gold
tissue at either side still further in
creasing the richness of effect.
In this case the gold device is
suggestive of an additional embroid
ery, but in another new ribbon it
is an inseparable and interwoven
part of the brocade of the device
of big, closely clustered chrysanthe
mums. But through some of the
shimmering petals there also comes
a flash of color—here the most bril
liant of blues, there a warmth of
rose, now a gleam of green, while
in the weird and distinctly “impres
sionist” background black and white
and orange and flame. Each has
its part, and you might even dis
cover, too, on closer scrutiny, a soft
gray and palest tea-rose yellow!
Truly a wonderful amount of ar
tistic ingenuity, as well as skill, goes
to the making of one ribbon nowa
days.
Another thing of 'beauty and of
ribbon is of distinctly and decora-
tively Oriental effect, a scheme of
color in, say, tawny browns, deep
orange, pale amber and soft blues,
-wihh just a fleeting suggestion
of mauve and gray and white, be
ing i r i*erwoven with shining gold
tinsel threads,
which, as worked
into the ribbed sur
face of the ribbon,
lend an extraordi
narily beautiful ef
fect, their appear
ances being so elus
ive and constantly
changing as to be
somewhat suggestive of the sunlight
playing on running water.
There Is also an assured future for
some less showy but very charming
sash ribbons of satin—white, pink,
gray or black—whose soft, rather
dull, surface shows up far better than
Ihe ordinary glossy variety, a broid-
ered design of gold threads of almost
laoe-like lightness, this dainty effect
Unusual “Lucile” Gown of White Chiffon, Showing the Voluminous Scarf Train and the Double Hemless
Skirt—And Above—Striking Evening Gown of Brocaded Chiffon in Shades of Taupe,
with Bodice of Unlined Flesh-Colored Chiffon.
being still further increased by the
finishing of the scalloped >satin edges
with a fine stitchery of gold. On the
reverse side, however, it is the golden
device which dominates and the soft
satin which makes an unobtrusive
background.
And one of the most beautiful of
all these new ribbons bas a bold con
ventional device wrought in rather
heavy silver or satin, on satin ef
cerise, or purple, emerald green, or
orange, or soft Saxe blue, to one and
all of which a silver edging, threaded
through with a line of the choseu
color, is then added. The silver device
also looks perfect on either a black
or a white background, while gold Is
chosen for the patterning of other
black and white ribbons with equally
good results.
By the way, it is now made possi
ble for the fashionable woman (for
once in her life!) to look like a saint
in a stained glass window! For it is
just such saintly draperies which
have provided the inspiration for the
latest Parisian piquancy In the way
of evening wraps.
Purple and black are its colorings,
and the long scarf drapery, which
The Leopard Gown of Yellow
and Black Fur Cloth and
Point d’Alencon Lace, with,
Novel Sash of Black Velvet
can either be left to trail on the
ground or be wound closely about
the figure, is finished off and weight
ed into any desired position by a bor
dering of skunk, the same fur being
used on-the neck. Here again It is
possible to give lesser or greater
prominence as desired to the contrast
of color; and though It is a garment
which is undoubtedly somewhat more
difficult of manipulation and man
agement than the ordinary wrap
shapes, its effect can be so wonderful
that some women will surely think it)
worth the trouble.
Another “surprise” coat is. at first
sight, just one of those new closely
enwrapped shapes, which ane clutch
ed upwards carelessly, in such a way?
that every line of the wearer’s figure
is defined. But let this clutch be loos
ened, and—bey, presto!—the soft ful
ness of fur-bordered brocade or velvet
falls apart and hangs straightly from
the shoulders or the back, after the
fashion of a court mantle, the upper
and closely fitting part finishing off
just below the waist".
Correct Appointments for the Dinner Table
By Mrs. FRANK LEARNED,
Author of “The Etiquette of New
York To-day.”
F OR the correct serving of a y
meal, whether It is the simple
home dinner or for a more
ceremonious occasion, there is a cer
tain standard of excellence to be ob
served. Those who care for the es
sentials of refined living know that
orderliness and dignity in the details
of the table appointments are of
vital Importance. The understanding
of these matters should be the
pleasure and pride of every young
housekeeper and homemaker, who
should be capable of instructing her
servants in the method of laying a
table and in the duties of attending
to it and to all of its necessary be
longings. An experienced maid may
be taught to arrange the table at
tractively and to take proper care of
the linen, silver, cutlery, china and
glass. v Not every one can have an
accomplished butler.
For the family meal there may be
loss decoration than for an occasion
when guests arc expected, but it is
not a difficult thing to have an
artistically arranged table every da>.
Home may be made very attractive
when all the small details are at
tended to as a matter of habit. The
comfort and cheerfulness of a din
ner depend very much on the pleas
ing effect of the table itself. The
simplest' meal at a well-appointed
table is enjoyable. Confusion or a
promiscuous arrangement detract
from pleasure and appetite.
Table cloths and napkins should
be of fine white double damask,
fresh and spotless, silver and knives
must be polished, glass shining,
china in perfect condition.
Napkins for dinner are from three-
quarters to seven-eighths of a yard
square, or at least of generous size.
For formal dinners table cloths
enriched with lace are sometimes
used, but a hostess never makes a
mistake who uses the plain white
handsome damask of fine quality and
perfectly smooth.
When laying the table a thick
under cloth of canton flannel should
be spread and the table cloth laid
over it. The table cloth should have
been ironed with extreme care,
folded in lines which divide the
table at right angles.
No stiffness is in perfectly ironed
linen. It is soft and smooth. The
folds serve as a guide in arranging
the places, or “covers,” as they are
termed, symmetrically.
At each place is a plate. Care Is
taken to have the places at the head
and foot of the table, and at the
side-s, exactly opposite to each other.
On each plate is a plainly folded
napkin, having within it, or on it, a
roll or a thick piece of bread, but
placed so that it may be seen. It is
contrary to etiquette to have fanci
fully arranged napkins.
The usual rule is to have two or
three forks at the left of each plate
at dinner, according to the number
of courses to be served. One or two
steel knives are at the right. A sliver
knife Is added, if there is to be a
fish course. A tablespoon for soup
is at the right of the knives. If
oysters on the shell are to be served
ar. oyster fork is at the right of the
knives, or if grape-fruit is to be
served an orange spoon is there. A
perfectly even arrangement of forks,
knives and spoons is important
Knives are placed with the blades or
sharp edges toward the plate. Glasses
are at the right toward the tips of
the knives. .
Flowers are, of course, the most
beautiful decorations for the centre
of the table. If they are for any
special entertainment they may best
be preserved in their freshness and
not placed on the table until com
paratively within a short time be
fore the guests are to arrive. A
hostess who is careful goes to the
dining room before the arrival of
guests to see that the flowers and
all appointments are as perfect as
possible to give the finishing touches
to the table.
A jardiniere of growing ferns is a
pleasing every-day centre piece, or
fruit may be in a dish of silver, glass
o: china. A handsome piece of orna
mental silver, some choice heirloom,
is sometimes used 1 as a centrepiece.
Small pepper-pots of silver, salt
cellars of silver with silver salt-
spoons. are at the four corners of
the table, or within easy reach of
every two persons.
There may be compotiers of silver
or china for fruit or bonbons, small
dishes with salted almonds, bonbons
or cakes, but the table should not be
overladen. Good taste is shown in
the selection and arrangement ol'
the appointments, the flowers, fruit
or sliver. Anything planned for the
sake of display is ostentatious and
objectionable.
On a serving table should be
platg$ in readiness for the salad
course, and for dessert, extra silver
that may be required, a carafe, or a
silver pitcher of iced water, and a
plate with rolls or bread. Small
dishes with olives and celery may
be on the serving table and passed
between the courses.
It is not correct to place the small
silver for dessert on the table when
it is being laid for dinner. It is
brought with the dessert plates. A
dessert spoon and fork may be on
each plate for this course, or may
be put down at each place by the
servant.
After dessert the finger-howls are
brought, each on a small plate, hav
ing on it, beneath the finger bowl, a
dainty doily, a mere bit of choice,
filmy linen, lace or drawn work,
merely to prevent the delicate china
from being scratched. Finger bowls
are less than half filled with water.
At a family meal the after-dinner
coffee may be served before leaving
the table, but when guests are pres
ent it is customary to have the
coffee passed on a tray after the
ladies have returned to the drawing
room. This is done, as a general
rule, in every-day home life. The
coffee is in small cups, with coffee
spoons laid on the saucers. A sugar
bowl and tongs accompany the
service. ^
Although this article deals chiefly
with the appointments and not the
serving of a dinner it may be stated
that the service is according to thaf
custom of having everything passed
by the servant from the side table
or pantry.
It may be explained that all extra
silver, pepper-pots and Salt-cellars
are removed before dessert and
crumbs are brushed off with a clean
folded napkin into a fresh plate.
In all well appointed households
everything is removed from the
table after a meal, the table cloth is
carefully folded and put away. On
the table is placed a centrepiece of
linen and a vase of flowers or jardi
niere of ferns or whatever may have
been in the centre at dinner.
Bread and butter plates are not
used at dinner. OH, vinegar, mus
tard, horseradish and the like are on
a sideboard and passed when needed.
Old-fashioned casters and cruets are
not placed on the table.
The preferred custom for lighting
a dining room is to have shaded elec
tric sidelights from the walls and to
use lighted candles In old-fash
ioned silver candlesticks on the
table. Colored silk candle shades, or
open-work silver shades, lined with
a colored silk, are liked. If no side
lights are in a room and there Is the
necessity of having a light from
overhead, at least it should not be
glaring. Although a dining-room
should not be too brilliantly lighted
it Is' undesirable to go to the other
extreme and have It dimly lighted.
That is unbecoming and depressing.
Flowers, candlesticks or orna
ments should be arranged so that
they may not interfere with the view
across the table or with conversa
tion with guests opposite.
Copyright, 1913. by the Star Company. Great Britain Rights Reserved.
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