Newspaper Page Text
■Black in Evidence
I for Fall Dresses
I Darker Materials Take an
Early Lead in Modes
for New Season.
Black frocks predominate In the
, ar lv fall exhibits, with navy blue as
the' only dose competitor, notes a
fashion writer in the Washington
Star Fabrics are unusually interest
in' though, and they more than make
up’ for the lack of variety in color
tones. Several new satins have made
their appearance —soft clinging, crepe
like silks that lend themselves admir
ably to drapery and pebbly-surfaced
satins that are effective in plainer
models, with little or no trimming.
Ecru lace is a favored medium for
collars and cuffs, while beige georgette
and eyelet-embroidered organdio are
also popular. Some frocks fashioned
on simple, straight lines, combine t\
of them. For instance, one attractive
model seen was of pebbly black satin,
with the bateau neck bordered by a
rolled-over collar of opeuwork beige
orgar lie frilled with several tiers of
narrow self-color lace. Gauntlet cuffs
of organdie, also edged with lace flut
ing, added the only other touch of
trimming.
' on- street frock was of navy blue
Poiret twill, cut on rather severe
tailored lines, and yet trimmed with
soft lace frills, which contradicted the
tailored effect. It was fashioned In
one straight piece, with a rounded
neck bordered by a pointed collar and
long sleeves molded to fit the wrists
likv gloves. A jabot of shirred ecru
lace drooped from the collar fastening,
while lace ruffles bordered the sleeves,
half-veiling the hands, and extended
Frock of Navy Poiret Twill With Lace
Jabot and Sleeve Frills.
in straight lines up the side of each
sleeve, nearly touching the elbows.
Green braid, stitched in silver and out
lined on one side with a narrow
thread of gold braid and oa the other
with red, outlined both collar and
sleeve ends, and also framed the lace
Restful Window Seat
Adds Charm to Home
A well-considered window seat has
an appeal all its own, says Estelle H.
Rles In the Delineator. In the small
house where there is little „ space for
chairs, and in the larger one where
bare comers and uninteresting spots
are not Infrequent, there is good op
portunity for this pleasant feature. If
there Is a bay window, it offers a par
ticularly delightful chance for a win
dow seat where a group *of persons
may enjoy Blight exclusiveness without
complete isolation. Here it fits into a
space not otherwise used and will give
an air of completeness and coziness to
the window.
In constructing a window seat, It Is
preferable, for ease in cleaning, to have
its base rest fully upon the floor. If it
is raised but a couple of inches,
sweeping is awkward and neglect Is en
couraged. If the window seat does
not rest solidly upon the floor, It should
be several inches high, so that one
may readily reach under it.
In these days when one is likely to
.nut a dance record on the phonograph,
Unusually Plain But
Striking Jacquette
Crystal crepe has been masterfully
used in creating this winsome gar
ment. The cuffs, revers and sash are
in black.
frills at the side of each sleeve. Ad
ditional strips of the three-tone braid
were appliqued over each hip in a
conventional pattern and extended tire
length of the skirt at each side, form
ing pseudo-panels. 1 lirce long tassels
of dark blue silk dangled from the
braid outlines on the hips, adding the
finishing touches to the model.
Dainty Ribbon Rose
Bag Is Easy to Make
Every woman wants a dainty and
distinctive bag to carry with her
pretty frocks. Here is one of the
daintiest and easiest that can be made.
For the foundation cut two circles of
buckram and cover with silk of the
same color as the ribbon you intend
using. Use four or six yards of rib
bon according to the size of bag' de
sired. Tack the end of the ribbon to
the center of the circle, then twist it
and swirl It nround in circles until
the entire foundation is covered. Pins
will have to be used to hold the rib
bon in place until the foundation Is
covered; then the ribbon Is tacked
and the pins removed. When the two
circles have been thus covered they
are joined together with the same rib
bon. This makes a rose bag similar to
a double cockade, and should be
swung over the arm.
Hand Knit Frocks Are
Chic for Sports Weal
Hand-knit sports frocks for madame
and mademoiselle are among the smart
knitted garments worn by women who
dress well. But if a woman can wield
a knitting needle, she can have the
same frock at much less cost.
Some of the frocks are made in one
piece, with low V-neck and plain
stocking stitch for three-quarters of
the way, and in squares or plaids, ns
you will, of the knit and purl combina
tion. The skirt ends with a plain hem
effect in the stocking stitch. Others
are two-piece. Yellow, tan, beige,
powder blue, green and white, In one
tone or with another color oomblned,
are used for these frocks.
The softest yarns should be used.
Some of the frocks are embroidered
in Angora or brush wool, and still
others are trimmed with worsted yarn
flowers or conventional designs whicl
are appliqued on.
Draped Fall Hats.
Many of the early fall hats art
draped on the lines of a tarn. Avery
pretty model of black velvet Is em
broidered In white silk. The design Is
large leaves In outlire stitch.
pick up the rugs and “be off,” window
seats are particularly desirable. Those
who do not participate in the frolic
will be more comfortable In a good
window seat than in a chair that is
constantly being run Into even In spite
of the best Intentions.
And after the dance, if one has light
refreshments in the dining room and
more guests than one can comfortably
accommodate at table, the dining room
window seat pleasantly offers Itself.
It Is possible to upholster a window
seat in cretonne or other material In
harmony with the rest of the room.
This Is not essential, except as a mat
ter of personal preference, as window
seats may be had in stock designs
with excellent wood finish in styles to
harmonize with the character of the
room. The use of bright colored cush
ions und upholstered seats, however,
Is undoubtedly a large factor In the
charm of the room and gives a verve
that immediately attracts attention.
The best kind of upholstery work and
a good grade of stuffing is most essen
tial to make the seat cushions c m
fortable.
THE DANIELSVILLE MONITOR, DANIEIjtVILLE,
KcMEteiviixrt
Faity Tale
ay /W QHAM BOWER
■ i wrtvowT w wnn uanmm wuaa ■
BABY ZEBRA
*Tve named you Julia," said Queen
Bess to her child.
“Of course It was the keeper In
the boo who told me that he thought
that would be a nice name for you,
and I think so, too. I thought so the
moment he spoke of It."
Now, Julia was a baby zebra, and
her mother was a grown-up zebra.
A BObra, ns you know, Is something
like a horse with stripes.
"I suppose there are some people
who wouldn’t think a baby zebra was
the sweetest thing In the world, but
I do," Mother Zebra said.
Sometimes now she was called
Mother Zebra, though, of course.
Queen Bess was her renl name, as
I’ve said before.
"Your father, Julia Zebra, Is known
as George First. Does not that make
him sound regal?
“Itegnl means kingly, of course.
"You’re enjoying hay, too, now. Oh,
yes, you’re eating very grown-up food,
and yet you are only a little girl, only
a little girl.
•Tour father Is eleven years old.
You see, tlint makes him very wise
and important.
“There are creatures of eleven
years old who may not be wise and
Important, but to my zebra mind there
is nothing much finer In the way of an
age than the age of eleven.
“The King, your father, thinks that
my age is a fine age. lam nine years
old.
"We are both from Cape Colony,
South Africa, which is far, far away
from here. There are nine zebra
cousins here in the zoo, which is a
splendid number. Of course I think
eleven would be a nice number of
zebras to have here, and perhaps
“It’s a Nice World."
they’ll send for two more some time
to make the number eleven.
“I really think, though, that nine Is
all right as a number when It means
the number of cousins we have here.
“And eleven Is the finest age to be.
“Two of our babies have been given
to other zoos, which Is quite fair, I
suppose. We were given something
In this zoo In exchange.
An exchange is fair. Even if It
means exchanging zebra and other
fine beasts.
“One of the young zebra children
was sent to Belgium, which Is far, far
away, across an ocean, and then still
more of a distance.
“To be sure I do not think so much
of the distance, for I came here from
a greater distance still. But people
think that Is far away.
“The other baby zebra was sent to
a zoo in this country. But you are
to stay here with your mother, for
you are your mother’s Julia baby girl!
“I knew you were going to look just
as you do.”
“How did you know that, Mother
Zebra?” asked Julia Zebra.
“A little bird told me,” said Mother
Zebra.
“A little bird?” repeated Julia.
“Yes,” said Mother Zebra, “a little
bird. But when I say that I say It
as people do who use that expression.
“When someone knows a nice
secret they are apt to say:
“ ‘Oh, a little bird told me.’ They
mean that It Is a .very nice little
secret —Just such a odJ* as a dear little
bird would tell.
“Dear me, dear me,” continued
Mother Zebra, “what a handsome
bumble-bee I do see over yonder.
“He’s handsome, but I hope he’s not
coming to call on me. He has a most
magnificent black and golden suit. It
looks like a very expensive and rich
and magnificent bumble-bee suit.
“He must have paid a great deal of
bumble-bee money for It.
“Ah, he’s not coming to call here.
He sees a flower over yonder. Well
and good, well and good.”
“It’s a nice world. Isn’t It?” asked
Julia as she looked about her.
“Couldn’t be better,” said Mother
Zebra. "Couldn’t be better 1”
wide Variations
in Selling Hogs
Analysis Made by Depart
ment of Agriculture
of Shipments.
(Prepared by tbs United States Department
of Agriculture.)
Costs of marketing hogs In the
central corn belt show extremely wide
variations In both home and terminal
markets. Au analysis has been made
by the United States Department of
Agriculture of shipments by 200 co
operative associations In 1021. It dis
closes such extreme differences In unit
costs that averages appear of little
value as representations of marketing
expense. In discussing marketing
costs, evidently the first requirement
is to know whose cost you are talk
ing about.
The department’s study Indicates,
for example, that between the local
expense of the association with the
lowest cost and that of the association
with the highest there was a spread
of nearly 1,000 per cent. Cost per
1,000 pounds shipped was about 80
cents for the association with the low
est cost. For the association with
the highest cost It was about $3. It
Is said, however, that the local costs
of the different associations covered
such a diversity of functions that
“management” was practically the
only item common to them all.
Units of Marketing Expense.
In a general way locul marketing
expense is held to Include the local
manager’s commission, assessments
for sinking fund, car preparation
costs, and miscellaneous expenses.
Losses arising from the crippling nnd
killing of stock In transit are usually
included. Shrinkage In weight Is not
Included, nnd represents a loss which
falls upon the original shipper. Ex
cluding freight, the department finds
that hog marketing by co-operative as
sociations In the corn belt through
commission agents In the central mar
kets during 1921 cost about $2.80 per
thousand pounds.
About one-third of this amount was
home expense, and the rest terminal
market expense. It Is remarked that
average costs at the different terminal
markets are as apt to be misleading,
though In a lesser degree, as average
home costs for the different shipping
associations. Average terminal cost
for all associations and all markets,
for example, was $1.90 per 1,000
pounds. But the variation between
terrnlnnl markets was from $1.59 to
$2.23. The association .with the low
est average terminal costs paid $1.32
per 1,000 pounds, while the association
with the highest paid $2.02. These
figures are averages of associations
shipping to the various markets,
weighted on the volume of business.
The low and high figures are there
fore low and high cost associations
and not shipments. As the services
performed at the terminals varied con
siderably, the spreads do not meas
ure proportionate differences In unit
costs.
Commlsolon Costs Vary.
Thus commission costs varied from
68 cents to $1.19 cents per 1,000
pounds. But commission is usually
charged on a per car basis. Varia
tions In commission costs are prob
ably due principally to differences In
car load weights, rather than to vari
ations in commission charges. An
association whose commission costs
are high probably has been unable for
various reasons to ship full car loads.
Similarly, variations In yardage costs
may result from variations in the size
of the animals. Variations In feed
costs may be due to variations In
animal weights nnd to some extent,
In the price of feed. Nevertheless,
when all due allowance Is made for
SOY BEAN GOOD OAT SUBSTITUTE
May Yield as Much or More
Than Grain Crop.
The versatile soy bean not only can
substitute for hay nnd silage, but has
also been found, when allowed to
ripen, to be a good substitute for oats.
While the experiments bo far made
may not be conclusive, the college of
agriculture at Ithaca Is of the opin
ion thnt soy beans are likely to yield
as many pounds to the acre as oats,
and frequently even more. The fact
that soy beans make a good substitute
for oil meal in dairy rations is an
other reason that dairymen particular
ly are becoming interested in their
production.
Soil which lias been put in condition
favoruble to corn should produce a
good crop of soy beans. Like other
legumes, they can use a large umount
of acid phosphate. Unlike many le
gumes, however, they are not very sen
sitive to our soil and will frequently
grow well where clover Ls a failure.
such causes of cost variation, the dif
ference between association costs Is
still marked.
Further Investigations are being
made by the department Into the
causes of this variation in shipping
costs. It Is indicated, by the prog
ress so far made, that the real dif
ferences In home station expense are
considerably less than the apparent
differences. Diversity In account
ing methods furnishes the explana
tion of a considerable part of the
spread. Some shipping associations
do not handle live stock exclusively,
hut are Interested In numerous side
lines, nnd elements of cost entering
Into the handling of the side lines
have often been Included In state
ments on the live stock end of tha
business. Then, too, there are cases
In which expenditures for good will,
such ns dinners, and what might b
termed development outlay, have en
larged the total. Investigators for
the department are attempting a com
parison of shipping costs from strict
ly comparable Items of expense re
ported by the different associations.
It Is believed tills comparison will
show that variations In actual ship
ping efficiency, nnd In general busi
ness management, are not very great
Heavier Loading Recommended.
In view of the wide differences In
commission costs reported by the as
sociations, department officials think
Important savings could be effected
by heuvier car loudlng. The high cost
association In 1921 had an outlay for
commission charges amounting To
more tlinn twice that of the low cost
association. Probably a great part of
this variation was due to a differencs
In car load weights, rather than to
differences In rates or In services per
formed at the various markets. It Is
suggested that economies effected by
full loading might more than compen
sate for any additional loss due to
crowding, nnd would give an added
advantage In reducing unit freight
costs.
Losses from crippling and killing
hogs In transit, under present prac
tices, are paid by the local shipping
office and Included In Its marketing
costs. Probably differences in losses
from this cause should be considered
when making comparisons of ship
ping costs; but the department has
not been able as yet precisely to de
termine the factors muking for vari
ability in loss ratios. It has estab
lished, however, that loss from crip
pling is greater In mixed shipments
than In shipments containing only
hogs; that the loss is greater In win
ter than In summer; nnd that the per
centage of hogs crippled Is twice the
percentage killed. Though seasonal
variation In tlie number of hogs killed
Is not as great as In the case of hogs
crippled, there Is, nevertheless, an ap
preciably larger death loss In the
spring than In other seasons, per
haps In consequence of sudden
changes of temperature.
Officials of the department are press
ing forward their study of the whole
subject in the hope that It will throw
light on the causes of strikingly wide
variation in live stock marketing costs
which has been shown to exist. They
believe that diversity In the account
ing methods and In the form of ship
ping associations, and differences In
the amount of service received at ter
minal markets, account for a substan
tial part of the spread, but leave much
of It unexplained. It Is expected fur
ther Investigation will reveal elements
of cost which, in many cases, might
he eliminated or greatly reduced, and
will Indicate the direction In whJih
the best prospect of improvement Is
bo found for the entire live stock
shipping industry.
If soy beans have never previously
been grown, the seed should be Inocu
lated. On clean lnnd they may be
plnnted solid with tne grain drill at
the rate of a bushel and a half of seed
to the acre. The college recommends,
however, sowing them In rows 28
Inches apart, at the rate of 20 quarts
of seed to the acre, In order to make
cultivation possible.
Soy beans are usually harvested like
other beans. If not allowed to get too
ripe, however, they may be cut with
the grain binder.
Early Moltera Loaf.
The early molters loaf too long on
the Job, lienee are unprofitable and
should be sent off to market as soon
as It Is possible to locate them In the
flock.
Fall Freshening Favored.
Milk cows bred to freshen in tha
fall means maximum production when
butter, butterfat and milk prices ars
better than they are In the summer.