Newspaper Page Text
r
1U D
HEAKHT’S SEN DAY AMERICAN, ATLANTA, UA.. SUNDAY, MAY 25, 1913.
For Milady '$ Wardrobe
By MME. HAUTE MONDE.
Net over a color make* loveliest of
bridesmaid gowns always, especially
for less formal weddings A point,
however, is that till* reason the lining
is not of charmeuse but a layer of
chiffon I'nder this, of course, is
worn one of the new Empire slips of
chiffon that replace skirt and corset
cover " * 'v are lovely in their ele
gant li «. a mass of fine hand
tucks . road entre deux through
which *atln ribbon is run. and
look mu like a princess slip than
lingerie.
• • •
The flowered crepe voiles, with their
quaint French posits scattered over
the surface, have great possibilities
for bridesmaids' or attendants’
gowns, especially for the summer
weddings where a little of the cere
monial aspect is often omitted. Su
perposed materials, in line with the
futurist colorings, give a good chance
for splendid color effects.
• • •
Three-piece suits of imported cot
ton ratines with th.» correct fuzzy
texture are at the same time thin
and diphanous'y light weight. Sum
suit* are something new. and any
bride should certainly include them
In her wardrobe. They can be worn
with equal propriety in town or at
the summer resorts, so that they
have a double uf*»—a valuable eco
nomical feature.
• • •
For soft and light gowns here is a
hit of useful information A slip of
supple satin is often necessary to
hold the ruffles and draperies. If,
for instance, a drew* discloses at the
lower edge a pleated flounce, the up
per part being a tunic, the plea led
flounce can be attached to the Hip
instead of the tunic.
* * •
The brilliantly colored athletic coat
that replaces this year the knitted
sweater coat is another novelty for
the bride’s outfit, of lightest weight,
yet thick and of winter material
weave, these coats with their brilliant
green, red or yellow hues are a wel
come addition to any out of town out
fit.
• • •
The cape, new in shape, that slopes
away in a cutaway effect from the
neck and is weighted on the edges by
ruching, ruffles or marabout, is pret
ty to throw on over the light even
ing dresa, and it is the fashion to
have several of these
* • •
When the greut question of the
crash am rrdle comes up for con
sideration uere is a decided empha
sis placed on crossed lfnes. The soft
ribbon, after being wound around
the waist, is curved and crossed at
any place that is In need of this
note of color. The tunic is another
part of the costume which can be
used as an effective place for the
crossing of lines. The examples are
every where noticeable, and a leniency
Is the chief characteristic. which
promises the right and becoming
crossing of lines for all women
• • #
Tailored suits have bolero or eton
Jackets and broad girdle of a con
tracing color Buttons are much In
evidence, and those of porcelain.
Ivory, tortoise shell or enamel are
most favored. •
Striped materials are extensively
used for street costumes. A Paquin
model of gray and brown ribbed ma
t-rial has a modified bolero Jacket,
with re vers, collar and cuffs of brown
and white checked silk
• * •
The present fashion seems more
than ever to seek to preserve a Ju- I
venile appearance to the feminine
silhouette, and even to exaggerate. A !
woman very rarely pauses to consid- |
er w hether such and such a detail of I
her toilette w 111 be. too young, and the !
designers of models seldom think of
t reating anything specially destined j
for the woman in the autumn of her !
life. Every fashion Is permitted to!
her so long as she has the wit an 1
the good sense to adapt it to her gray j
hair. Certain lines of a costume in-
• nded for a young woman may eas-
v be modified, and the desired ef- !
foet can be produced bv a veiling * f
lace flounces, so as to achieve an "en
semble ’ which will give harmony .o
a silhouette made heavy by age.
• * »
Evening wraps are developed of
torded silk chiffon or heavily beaded;
net or chiffon. The handsomest mod-
*'s nre draped about the knee* and
f-atoned over at the side with a single
button or ornament.
• • •
Silk is more popular than ever,
bu: the weaves having rough *ur-
faces, like crepe de chine, crepon and
tubfVire, are particularly lovely. Rep
and silk moire are preferred to lib
erty and taffeta silk.
• • •
Neckwear guimpes. girdles, hosiery
and gloves parasols and shoes are
all painted from the dye pots of the
I’ar Ease Tip. woman who love?
brilliant plumage will have no diffi
culty In satisfying her taste this sea
son.
• • •
The combination of fabrics is of the
greatest importance this spring. Cot
ton and wool eponge in novelty de
signs are much used in combination
with not only plain eponge but us .1
trimming for silks Pique, printed
in cretonne patterns and Bulgarian
colors and designs i«» a l»o used to
trim wool dresses. It makes the
?!r.a”t*st ’ittle vests and it is often
used for revers and cuffs
- • •
Modi* f » say green will be the
' rag, for women's toilettes through
out the summer.
In Paris whole frocks and ward
robes carry the one tone -that of
bright lettuce leaves. Black suits are
trimmed with green; green waists
and belts are worn, while the strik
ing combination of a green tafTeta
gown worn with n red Jacket has
been seen In "Rumpelmayer's" stylish
lea room, on the Rue Royal.
• • •
Oriental color combinations are
worked into some of the newest brai l?
and fancy ornaments, and are used
to trim the darker-toned coat suits
and one-piece dresses of ratine,
eponge and covert. In place of satin
for collar and cuffs, much bcngalin»
will be used and There ; v a decided
preference for novelty eponge and r*-
t ne.
* • •
The mania for the new silhouette is
showing no sign of abating. The
draping of skirts is more confined,
bringing the fullness from the hips to
the front, so as to emphasise the
straight line and give the "1913
stylish droop." The lower part of th^
*kirt is now left quite plain, clinging
closely to the figur*.
Not the least detail of the summer !
blouse or wash dress Is the \ «*®v dec
orative buttons that are used t>» ado.n i
them Few conventional round, fiat I
pearl or crocheted buttons can b» 1
the prevailing style for bright colors!
made its impression even on the but- |
ing blouses in all the kaleidoscope I
colors imaginable,
they have changer
the least attractive
Some are ball shap<
center of th sphei
ded ring of a contra
terial.
In
, and
t birr
'd. and
c ther
sting <
hape, tc
that Is not
about them,
und the
an ad-
or m.i-
Balkan blouse drr
children of all ages
models seen in the
fashioned on this styl
woolen? and linens rnak
ssi-s look well <
and the prettic
good shops a
The thick
up well
modified fashion of this long wait
ed style, and for ihe voiles, challies
and lingerie frocks it is simply a
question of introducing a little more
fullness to keep It from looking skim
py.
• • •
In the toilet of the fashionable
woman of the season. Jewels aboun .,
but mounted In an original manner,
which Is one of the things most typi
cal of our epoch. The brilliants and
pearls are placed in aiglets on the
corsage and sometimes in the hair,
lightly and artistically disposed.
Bracelets encircle the gloves sewn
discreetly with brilliants, and even In
the case of a diadem they are now
made without any heaviness, each
stone mounted separately.
• K ■
"Never have pearls been so much in
favor, and if there are marvellous
necklaces and collars of them there
are also a lot of imitation and fair,
pearls. Many of our women of so
ciety wear pearl earrings, and pearl
buttons compete with diamond but
tons and those of color. Indeed,
oome of our women have .adopted the
drop earrings so becoming to the fa
and long since abandoned. Diamond
necklaces are not worn any longer
about the neck, but an epaulettes, at
are also the pearl dog collar*
The separate blouse Is still with us.
but so beautified this season that it
can hardly be associated with the
ohl-tlme "shirt - waist” of the Ameri
can woman. The French have trans
formed the blouse. Into Its present
mode, a transparent bodice of the
thinnest mousseline de sole, the only
opaque material used being a silk
sash around the waist. The rest, th?
sleeves included, is absolutely trans
parent—In some cases so much so as
to indicate a wish on the part of the
wearer to outdo the most daring
fashion of the dlrectoire period. Rose
tinted tulle bodices with very short
sleeves are exceedingly popular
Fashion experts predict that their
vogue will increase as the season ad
vances.
• • •
"Many women prefer rings to
gloves They are wrong, beca un
refined and really elegant persons
wear with pleasure the glove th't
fall? Into many wrinkle* over th*.
arm.
“The eoiri wrist %ag i» the coquet
tish thing for dinners. It can be laid
on the table or suspended <>n th
arm without inconvenience. On th
ontrary. it is rather an ornament
for its frame and chain are also con
stellated with stones.”
The movement in favor to lower
heels s«ems to be making headway.
Very few of the fancy Louis XVI
jeweled or lacquered heels, which
caused a sensation by their extraordi
nary height early In the season, were
seen this afternoon. At the same
time the classic cothurni or buskin?,
laced high on the leg, are more fash
ionnble now.
• • •
At a recent French exhibit of new
modes, the general tone was consid
erably more sober than ever before
this year, which is interpreted as an
Indication that the time for the ex
hibition of daring freaks is over, and
that reasonableness Is beginning to
rule Paris mode? Let us hope the
reign of reason will reach this sec
tlon of the fashionable world in the
near future.
• • •
A charming gown which attracted
much attention in the aforesaid ex
hibit was of dove-colored tussor with
basque and bodice of Alencon lace,
and a bolero embroidered with Nat
tier blue silk and silver Lace fell
gracefully over the skirt from the
waist ns far as the knees. It was
shorter in the front than In the back,
giving a •’raceful appearance to a
simple but rich dress.
I N this fetching model the bod
ice is widely opened in square
front and back and makes a
kimono which shows the upper
part of the arm. Five rows of
straps hold it over the shoulder
and a beaded ornament finishes
the small sleeve?. The kimono is
of beaded macrame net. An effect
of bended black net girdles the
bust. A huge violet rose com
pletes the bodice. The same bead
ed net circles the hips, going up
the middle of the front. The skirt
is tightened at the bottom "by tw o
huge headed ornaments and is
finished by a round train with
headed cabochon.
Short Coats and
Parasofs
The short coat has really made
headway. It la trying and many
women will not wear K but thlr
year the ranks of the converts have
increased. This is probably because
S I nther unusual conceits have been de-
j \ eloped in the way of modified ctons
i and in Jaunty Jackets with postilion
11 backs.
In the drawing is shown a short
jacket of white serge, worn with a
coppery green creation, with kilted
I underskirt. The other picture show’*
i cretonne blouse edged with satin
trim’ . The vest and sleeves are of
I net: the skirt of plain eponge.
That indispensable accessory of tho
summer toilet, the parasol, Is featured
this spring with a turned-back edge,
and again with fullness gathered into
the edge, illustration*’ of both fan
cies being given in the pictures.
• • •
Summer Footwear
There are women whose ?lender-
ne.-< of ankle and wrist remains un
changed, no matter how much avoir
dupois the rest of the figure takes
on, as years advance, hut the aver
age woman finds difficulty in keeping
her ankles trim after thirty—especial
ly in the summer time, when the
high buttoned boot is exchanged for
low cut slippers and pump?. If low
footwear is worn continuously
through the summer it is found that
buttoned boots, donned in the au
tumn. pinch cruelly unless the but
tons are moved. As the ankle,
spread because of its uneonftnement
during the summer, recedes in size,
the boot becomes loose and another
entire change of the button Is nec
essary.
This trouble may be obviated if
the buttoned boot is worn at least
part of the time through the sum
mer and as such boots are now con
sidered best form for street wear
with formal costume*, a pair of dain
ty patent leather pouts, with button
ed tops of suede or cloth, will not
only assist in keeping the ankles
trim, but will complete one’s summer
wardrobe satisfactorily. The white
buckskin buttoned boots, worn with
white tailored costumes, are smart
and attrac tive In appearance, and are
comfortable, even on the warmest
days. Such boots should always be
worn by the woman whose ankles arc
inclined to spread in the summer,
pumps and slippers being reserved
for piazza or driving use, when the
weight of the body is not thrown
continually on the feet.
The ankles of the woman who has
been a good dancer in youth seldom
grow clumsy as years advance, for
the firmly knit leg muscles allow lit -
th opportunity for a deposit of fat.
Rising and falling on the toes fifty
times night and morning, will help
to harden tlie ankles and keep them
more slender, and so will walking
with the toe persistently placed on
; the ground before the heel.
• • •
That Turkish Sash
Cherult introduced the broad
-ash tied around the hips in Eastern
line, and ties it there in a -ingle knot.
Used in this way It has no objection
able features. It would be far bet
ter to omit this sash from an even
ing gown, although it can be imitat
ed in an attractive way by fitting
it to the figure, making It appear as
a hip yoke and holding it in at the
back in pleats, letting the ends drop*
; to the knees.
Done in black satin and weighted
with Jet tassels this kind of sash is a
distinct addition to a gown of black
ne>t, which has evidently taken the
place of black satin for evening wear
this spring.
Whatever else you do about thi?
sash avoid the kind made of cubist
ribbon in gorgeous colors, which is
tied about a white satin frock; and
unless vou are very young and have
the style that can be daring, do not
adopt the Eastern sash of Roman
ribbon with a coat suit of black or
blue faille.
GIFTS FOR -THE JUNE BRIDE
At this season of the year, heavy
demand** are made on one’s purs*
by the numerous wedding gifts for
the June bride. If taste and discrim
ination iuc f \iTclsed, many beautiful
and acceptable gifts may be pur
chase] for $r..o0 or less.
There are many beautiful and use
ful and distinctive gifts which can
be bought under the |5 limit. If
tho bride is of a sentimental turn of
mind and dhillkes exchanging her
gifts try to choose something which
will not be duplicated or which, if
duplicated, will stilt be useful. And
always choose the present with some
knowledge >f tho bride’s tastes and
needs In view.
As foi choosing something which
the brid*- is sure to like, that is pome
times Difficult. Some young women
with strong opinions and a distinct
idea of what they want their house 1
to look like lftcr they ha\e settled
it have been really made miserable
by the necessary presence of some
kindly sent gift In their living room.
If the giver avoids certain things
she run.*’ little risk of giving anything
which will be really disliked.
Picture?*, for Instance, are a bad
choke unless something really won
derful can be given. For $5. of course,
a very good carbon print of some
standard work of art could be bought
and well framed. Rut perhaps the’
bride does not like *he "Age of Inno
cence," or Whistler’s famous mother
or any other ch dee which you ipight
make. Therefore, taboo pictures.
Among tjie suitable $5 limit gifts
are any of the attractive wicker lamps
in the shops. Occasionally, at a sale,
a $.'* lamp large enough to serve in
living room or sitting room can be
found; one for a dressing table or
bedroom stand can always be had for
$4 These lamps are finished in ma
hogany and some of them have ma
hogany bases; they are a!>p finished
In various shade* of brown and green
enamel and stain and some are enam
elled white.
The shades are faced with silk or
cretonne, which gives the lamp a defi
nite color value, so know something
about the color scheme for the house-
you are helping to furnish before you
send the lamp. A white enamelled one
with cretonne of blue, pink, green or
yellow, as the cave might be. would
be lovely In almost ary house, for
almost any house boasts one bedroom
with white enamelled woodwork and
hangings and furnishings in white and
blue, pink, green or yellow, as the
case may he.
Silk elbow gloves om ■ meant only
one thing, apd that was silk elbow
gloves. To-day those words ifieun
many thing?’. They mean plain, old-
fashioned silk gloves which reach to
the e!bo,w. They mean gloves with
double arms, a meshwork of black silk
threads beginning at the wrist and
reaching to the elbow. They mean
silk gloves decorated vith insets of
lace and silk gloves with lace hands
and silk gloves embroidered in con
tracting colors and decorated with
rhinestones and sequin®. They also
means silk gloves with narrow, scal
loped and embroidered frills of the
silk fabric running from the wrist
to the elbow at the outside of the
arm.
Noveftu Jewelry
The vogue of novelty jewelry i?
still at Its height. Women who
ten years ago would have been shock
ed at the notion of Imitation Jewelry
now revel in all that is pretty in the
imitation jewelry's an. Among the
adornments that are nowadays
scarcely expected to be genuine are
frill pins, earrings and the necklace
that matches. Fashion dictates all
three for the summer season, and
that all three shall match. The frill
pins are unusually long to accommo
date the wide ruffles and jabots that
a woman pins at her throat. They
are to be found In platinum, gold,
satin silver and mat black settings.
Amethysts and topazes and all the
semi-precious stones are worked in
to light, graceful designs, and sap
phire?, emeralds, pearls and diamonds
are quite as convincing to the average
beholder until she has heard their
price. Jade is as popular as the cur
rent use of vivid green might lead
one to expect.
* * *
A little posy of colored flowers is
often thrust into the belt; sometimes
a garland of them is introduced as a
heading to the fashionable high belt.
Evening coats for young girls are
fashioned of the most filmy materials,
nets, silk crepes, chiffons, embroider
ed in silver, pearls and moonlight
beads. The coat proper is often set
into a dee~ hem of brocaded satin or
ribbon well below the hips, to give
that look of restrained fullness which
is a feature of the present modes.
fashion hints
Already the straw hat is seen every
where; in fact, the smart Parisian
considers February the proper month
to discard winter headgear. The wnall
hat still takes first place. It is made
of some new soft straw not yet named
and it branches out into sharp points
at the back, front or sides. A favor
ite trimming is the stiff tulle bow*,
though the aigrette at weird angles
continues to hold it?' own.
For the new* coiffure, which con
sists of a mass of hair rising from the
back of t he head with a pyramidal ef
fect, there is a special hat built out at
the same angle to accommodate the
hair
The Japanese kimono gowns have
brought in a sort of Japanese coiffure,
the hair being combed to the middle
of th? head, with fan-shaped bunches
of. tulle on either side.
A cote de cheval corded ?-ilk skirt is
draped in long points and is worn
with a three-quarter coat of .the same
ma• trial, which has a belt under tlie
arms, fastening at the front with a
bizarre dull gold buckle. The collar
and cuffs are of Bulgarian embroid
ery, in which browns, reds and yel
lows predominate.
The severe tailor-made costume hns
disappeared for the spring season. In
place of the double-breavted coat have
come the cutaway, the short renin-
g>le and the shorter Directolre coat,
usually of silk. Most of these have
the roiling Medici collar, standing out
f/om the neck and kimono sleeves
with very large armholes, the sleeves
t ftemselve* being ?'et in just above tno
* Ibow.
For Everybody, Everywhere
For workers with hand or brain—for rich
and poor—for every kind of people in
every walk of life—there’s delicious re
freshment in a glass of
different and better in purity and flavor.
The best drink anyone can buy.
Be sure to get the genuine. Ask
for it by its full name—to avoid
imitations and substitution.
BREN A U, The College Beautiful;
Its Ideal and Its Attainments
v— ^" *
ft,
siU h'
By Mary Carter Winter
Brenau College, Gainesville, Ga., is an institution with in
dividuality. It has conscience and personality. Its beautiful
grounds, handsome buildings and thorough courses are the ex
pression of high ambition, devotion, and an educational ideal
that recognizes nothing but the best.
All institutions have their ideals just <ts individuals hare;
and, as the ideals of individuals vary in loftiness and strength,
so arc the ideals of institutions on varying planes.
There is a tendency for individual members of an institu
tion to adopt the ideal of the institution, and this is particu
larly true of colleges because the members are in a formative
periodU
Because of this plasticity of the student, it is essential
that she come - within the influence of only the highest and
most helpful ideals.
The ideals of a College are relatively permanent: the individuals
which compose the student body change from year to year. But each
new group of students gradually assimilates more or less the ideal of
the institution.
SN
Ja
W/
The Brenau Ideal
The ideal of Brenau is refinement. Refinement means fundamental
culture and not mere polish. The refinement Idealized at Brenau is like
the refinement of gold which has been through the crucible. There the
refining fires have burned away ail dross and the precious metal can
no longer be tarnished.
The word "Brenau” means “refined gold.”
The picture of the Alchemist molding the features of a beautiful girl
out of refined gold is a pictorial representation of the ultimate object of
Brenau, to form a beautiful character which cannot be tarnished.
A Purifying Process
&L'\
Education at its best is a purifying process, and only incidentally a
polishing process. Culture which is no more than' skin deep will not
stand the acid test of deep and trying human experience.
It is the ideal of Brenau to prepare its students for such acid tests
—the common lot of humanity.
That this ideal has been often realized, the lives of thousands of use
ful women in various walks of life in all sections of the country beau
tifully testify.
The process of attainment of this ideal is not easy to describe.
Negatively, it is not an emotional process. The purification of culture is
not a new birth. It comes by means of no sudden transformation. It
is accompanied by no cataclysmic emotional paroxysm of the soul.
Religion is a helpful auxiliary, provided it does not degenerate into
fanaticism, which is sometimes mistaken for religion, and which is a
worse enemy of culture than gross ignorance.
But even religion is not a means of refinement. Some of the saints
wifi be very awkward and uncomfortable when they don the shining
robes and promenade in the streets of gold.
Religion mellows and softens human character. It furnishes new
motives and vitalizes human interests and enlarges the spiritual horizon.
But it does not refine. The process of attaining this refinement of
culture is like the process of refining the precious metal. Mixed with
materials of every kind the ore is stored in deep recesses of the
mountains and among the gravel beds of the valleys and streams.
By chance, or design far beyond our ken, some is gathered here and
there and in great, clanging, grinding stamping mills the process of
elimination and separation begins.
The resultant, unshapen, crude masses are then sent to the refiner’s
crucible. Here the process is slow and more intimate. Heat, the most
powerful force in nature, is gradually applied. The erstwhile disparate
and uneven elements melt together and become homogeneous, and in
the process the dross and unassimilable elements are easily eliminated.
After a proper cooling season the refined and purified metal istakeii
from the crucible and is ready to be adapted to any form of service
which its environment and the needs of humanity may require.
As an ornament there is none more ornate; wrought into useful ar
ticles for the home, there are none more prized; in the commercial
world it fixes the standard of value; in science it is reserved for the
most delicate experiments.
If it is not pushed too far, the analogy is very illuminating and help
ful.
I
Humanity’s Gold
Send for free booklet*
3
Whenever
you see an
Arrow think
of Coca-Cola.
The" great masses of humanity hidden away in the recesses of the moun
tains and scattered through the valleys and along the streams furnish the new
material.
Whether by Divine selection or by a process of elimination for which no
better phrase has been found than the "survival of the fittest," some of this ma
terial. here and there, is selected and placed in the great clanging, grinding
stamping mills which we know as the public school system
Here the eliminating process really begins. When one considers the amount
of material which goes in and the relatively small amount which comes out
having survived the numerous jars and Jolts and changes, one is inclined to won
der if all the noise and tumult, the great expenditure of time and money and en
ergy are worth while. But really the schools render quite as great a service
in eliminating the unfit as they do in preserving the fit—a view of the case
which critics of education might well consider.
The material which the public school system furnishes the college is lack
ing in homogeneity and is accompanied by much dross in the form of nreludW
egotism, and other hindering traits.
As heat is at the same time the source of greatest power and another
form of the physical light which illumines the universe, so knowledge real
knowledge—is the source of power and refinement and is the light which illu
mines the soul of man.
A Means and the End
But knowledge is a means and is not to be regarded as an end.
The end to be achieved in placing the gold in the crucible is not to heat it
but by heating It to make it possible to remove the dross.
If the ideal of Brenau has any claim to distinction it lies in, its recognition of
the fact that the acquirement of knowledge is merely a means to an end—and
this end the elimination from the character of prejudice, of egotism, of un
worthy thought and motive, and the adaptation of character to the highest prac
tical ends in the service of humanity, which Is at the same time the service of
God.