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all Hats Will Bring $1,000,000 to Atlanta
j
Butterflies are the prevailing motif. This is a
hat of black velvet with a black lace butterfly.
■
UEARST'S
AMKKICAM,
BUNDAV
Chic and Dashing
Here • where the factions (ftvide—some like it;
some laugh. It is made of midnight blue plush,
with a yellow figured top and a yellow feather but
terfly off at the side.
Shaded like a man’s derby, this hat of garnet
plush has a silk ribbon to match which trails behind
the left shoulder. Grav roses are used.
One must be pretty to weai
black velvet and patent leather.
this
hat —of
A flat sailor, of tete de negre plush, trimmed
with cream and brown fur and sacred bird of Siam
feathers.
FUTURIST GAUZE
Weirdest Designs Are Printed
Upon Them,and Some, Not Too
Grotesque, Are Attractive.
Turquoise blue satin crown, with a brim of
taupe duvetyn, and an aigrette—duvetyn being
a new material.
Chic—that’s the word. It needs a pert face
and vivacious manner. Black velvet with pink
facings and Paradise feathers.
Autumn Styles in Millinery Show That Large Creations Are Thing of
the Past—Butterflies Are Popular.
‘.Voir, deny it if you can,
'Though it's manners wake the man,
'It's millinery makes ihc girl**
—Song from “Red Feather.’*
Millinery, then, being such a serious
affair, some 1,400 women and 100 men
will visit Atlanta those later weeks
of August, and they will spend close
to $1,000,000 for millinery. The
“openings” for fall and winter styles
are on in Atlanta's great wholesale
houses, and the great semi-annual
buying is under way.
The general public will not see
these styles for a month or so to
come. Therefore, this is NEWS—
real hot stuff—for feminine readers.
Here goes:
Black predominates.
Nearly all hats are almost col
lapsible.
Butterflies are the prevailing
motif in trimmings.
Few large hats are shown.
Feathers and fur are “par
ticularly good.”
Rats and switches apparently
have gone to stay, for nearly all
the new hats are close-fitting and
necessitate scant coiffures.
For instance, one of the very pret
tiest styles shown-—from ma^puline
viewpoint at least—is a new poke of
black plush with pink facing and
paradise feathers. This is a saucy
little hat that goes with a pert face
and lively manner. One can imagine
it on a vivacious little demoiselle at
Longehamps—where, in fact, it was
photographed by an Atlanta designer,
and copied.
Splendiferous, indeed, must be the
sacred bird of Slam, whose feathers
adorn an extremely flat plush hat of
sailor shape.
Fur Cream and Brown.
A pelt of some little animal, about
the size of a weasel, twists about the
crown, and the two feathers complete
the trimming. The fur is cream and
bro\yn. The feathers are brown with
wonderful bluish markings more
beautiful than a peacock’s glories. The
plush Is a new shade of brown called
“tete de negre.” which sounds much
better in French than in English. All
this sets "hubby” back about fifty.
“Tete de negre,” by the way, vies
with black in popularity.
A huge black butterfly is the
only trimming on a little black silk
velvet turban with soft crown.
"Smart. And good. Oh! Very
good, indeed,” is what the designer
calls It. Let it go at that. Why
argue?
All humanity is divided into two
parts. Of these, one is composed of
those to whom styles in millinery are
a serious matter; the other, of those
who grin.
There's one hat which will bring
strict division of these parties. Now,
from the "pro’s" standpoint it is a
creation of midnight blue plush, with
a variegated plush top on the crown,
and an artistic feather butterfly
perched airily on the edge of the
brim.
Now. the "antis”: It’s a dark blue
contraption with a yeilow, scrambled,
Bulgarian top. and a funny little yel
low thingamajig sticking up behind.
Take your choice.
“Donna e mobile,” as Our old friend
Caruso has !t—"woman is tickle”—and
he might add, inexplicable. No dcubt
this is pretty, to a woman.
One must be pretty to wear the lit
tle black velvet hat. shaped like a
traffic cop’s helmet and trimmed with
patent leather fixings—so says the de
signer. If this is carefully explained
to customers, the hat should sell well.
Derby Cover* Eye.
Rather a novelty, but pretty, too,
is a hat shaped like a man’s derby,
which pulls down almost covering
the right eye. The shape is of garnet
plush, and a long ribbon matching
this shade Is thrown across the throat
from right to left, so that it hangs
down behind the left shoulder. Gray
roses complete the trimming.
Current history ever finds its re
flection in the styles. Bulgarian de
signs still are with us, and now comes
a blue plush hat—one of the few
large ones, in the Mexican style—
that is, it has a broad, flat brim or
namented with fuzzy little balls.
Big velvet hats, very like the sort
art students w*ear in the Latin Quar
ter of Paris, are to be seen. They
are almost bare of trimming—just
great, floppy pieces of black velvet,
sometimes to be pulled down over one
eye.
"Duvetyn” is a new material. It
is seen to best advantage in a hat
with a brim flaring up on one side,
and with a round crown. An aigrette
stands pertly, off to the rear. The
crown is of turquoise duvetyn and
the underbrim of taupe satin.
If you see a slate gray rubber hat
w r orn by some pretty girl on Peach
tree street this winter, don’t say you
weren’t prepared for it. This is due
notice that rubber has been called
into use for millinery. It was sure
to come, straw’, feathers, furs, flow
ers,' silks, satins, fruits, birds, ani
mals and what-not having been used.
The rubber hats are severe in de
sign. One has a "drape” to go under
the chin, made of green and blue
chenille. “They say” rain won’t hurt
them, and that they’re fine for auto-
ing. because they’re small.
It is the auto, so every one in the
millinery trade believes, that has
killed the big hat. A big hat is a
nuisance in a limousine, and hard to
keep on in a touring car or runabout
—and the rest of us like to act as if
We might go autoing. even if we do
not.
BLACK HOSE BOSTON FAD.
BOSTON, Aug. 16.—Black stock
ings worn with white shoes seem to
be quite the fad on the North Shore.
Last year all w*>re white stbokings
with black shoes, but this season
things have been reversed. Several
girls are following the fad.
“Galluses” or Braces of Blue
the Last Word in New
Masculine Mode.
LONDON, Aug. 16.—The very lat
est craze, initiated by a futurist ar
tist in Paris, is for gauze wraps to
be worn ^.t race meetings or at the
Casino on the continent. These wraps
have the weirdest designs printed up
on them, and some of them, when not
loo grotesque, are wonderfully at
tractive.
The Viscountess Curzon, one of the
loveliest blondes in England, has just
had made a marvelous gauze wrap
for continental wear. It has a border
of Egyptian figures in black thrown
against dead white background, the
material being so fine that it could
be drawn through a ring.
The lining of the wrap is of tan
gerine orange tulle and there is an
immense tulle.
It is to be worn over a fairylike
dress of embroidered muslin. The
hat is a broad Tuscan, weighed down
at one side by a cluster of white,
black and purple lrissee. Long single
black velvet ribbon, which depends
on the hat, is passed round the
throat and allowed. to hang low 7 at the
back. •
All the latest tunics are of striped
gauze, and they are very effective,
and are worn over black charmeuse
Sleeves are shorter and shorter, so that
thirty-button gloves are an absolute
necessity.
Lady Diana Manners looked par
ticularly attractive at a recent gar
den party in one which came well
down over her ears. Around the rim
were clusters of black and red cher
ries and wide strings of black velvet,
tied at the back so that the ends fell
straight down.
Special Cable to The American.
PARIS, Aug. 16.—Women’s skirts
for some time have been approach
ing the shape of the garments worn
by the masculine sex, and now Paris
and London face the prospect of see
ing feminine attire more like men’s
than ever. The last word in women’s
clothes is “galluses.” The suspenders
look very much like the broad blue
variety often hung in shop windows
in America and possibly labeled, “The
Fireman’s Friend.”
A Rue de la Paix dressmaker Is
enthusiastic over women wearing sus
penders. "Braces,” she declared,
“will keep the blouse from coming up
out of the waistband, as It some
times does, and if carried out in the
color of the skirt they should make a
charming line.”
Braces are not the only masculine
trend In fashion, however, for after a
wave of decided femininity in frocks,
when frills and fluffs, and sashes and
slashes, and hoppings and hobblings
have beer* in vogue, fashion has dash
ed to the other extreme and London
and Paris are promised waistcoats
with cutaway coats, large steel trou
ser buckles at the back of tweed
skirts and a ponderous and portly
watch chain stretched across the dia
phragm.
For the present the waistcoats are
still daintily evolved in delicate grays
and chestnuts, sprigged or flowered
Sometimes the waistcoats reach up to
the neck, finishing in a small “V.”
Again they wrinkle effectively around
the waist with a single or double row
of pearl buttons.
TATE SPRING
UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT
A high, cool, healthful retort, fa»
the heart or the Cumberland
Mountains of East Tennessee, an
unexcelled climate.
Modern hotel—one themeend acre
park and grounds—eighteen hole golf
course—saddle horses—fine five-piece
orchestra for concerts and dancing
and that most famous of ail
Mineral Waters,
TATE SPRING NATURAL
MINERAL WATER
always a help, nearly always a cure In Indigestion,
nervousness and all ailments attributable to Im
proper functions of the bowels, liver and kidneys.
Rev. Dr. E. E. Host. Bishop Methodist Church. Nashvlfle, Tswv,
says:
"It gives me the greatest pleasure to say that I regard Tate
Spring water as the best remedy for all disorders of the stomach,
bowels, liver and kidneys of which I have knowledge.”
Enjoy the healthful water at the spring or have It shipped to your
home. For sale by all druggists, in sterilised bottles, filled and sealed
at the spring.
Send postal to-day for Illustrated booklet, giving rates, location and
description of this ideal place for the summer outing. Address
TATE SPRING HOTEL CO.
S. B. ALLEN, MANAGING DIRECTOR,
TATE SPRING, TENN.
ATLANTA MINERAL WATER 00.. LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR^
it w
By M3VIE. HAUTE MONDE
M ANY of the latest summor models
are almost entirely made of
white muslin richly embroid
ered in the openwork English style.
These dresses are accompanied by
broad sashes and short coats of real
lace. The hats worn with them are
exaggeratedly “picture” In outline.
Tre brim fs always wide and the
crown almost hidden behind immense
butterfly bows of tulle or lace. For
occasion! of ceremony Leghorn and
Tuscan h£ts are trimmed with sweep
ing oarWch feathers in white or pale
'pastel tints.
• • •
Half a dozen different coatees or
mantlets can be worn with the same
robette, and endless variations can be
arranged with the introduction of
finely embroidered sashes which pos
sess heavily fringed ends. The cor
sage portion of these robettes is quite
plain, almost like a fine corset cover
It is made plain expressly, because
the great object is the introduction
of dainty lace and net blouses and
picturesque coatees or mantlets.
When accompanied by a shady hat
In Leghorn trimmed with pale roses
and black velvet ribbons these little
dresses have a special cachet.
• * t
Embroidered linen bags are offered
in many shapes and in as many de
grees of smartness, some being treated
quite as carefully in matters of finish,
mountings, etc., as though they were
of gorgeous material. Colored line,
embroidered with a touch of Bulga
rian embroidery, makes some effec
tive bags for individual costumes, but
the one-tone color is more practical
for general use. and some of the
handsome hags of real Irish lace filet
or other bold lace are better for gen
eral summer use than the embroid
ered linens.
• • •
Some particularly good belts called
the hip belt, are made up In white
and fashionable shades ana have large
oval buckles of the leather.
• • •
The waistline is not onlv allowed
to remain normal, but by swathing It
In wide supple sashes its size is con
siderably Increased.
The soft drape<
high restraining
of artistic gowns
Parrs.
! bodice minus the
collar Is a feature
worn by women in
The French designer knows where
a line must be accentuated and in
many cases uses tiny buttons for this
purpose.
• * •
Keen appreciation of the effective
lights and shadows given bV a moire
etfect has returned. Many frocks worn
by Paris m; nequins at the Long-
champs race w ere made of soft crept'
with the moire effect
Very much
coats of fine 1
with glilterim
orn are the evening
k net, closely woven
Plaited peplums of rnaiine. net or
mounseltlte de eoie appear on some of
the newest fro ks, and these are stif
fened by a thin wire or ruching or
taffeta at the bottom, so they extend
beyond the fro k.
• • •
The colored slip is in vogue and
summer frocks of sheer linen, mnusa--
line de soie or batiste have pink. blu*\
yellow or green silk lining. The
T
girdles worn with these costumes are
usually of a contrasting color.
• • •
In millinery the single red rose is
a note Which bids fair to beconi. • \
tremely popular. It nestles among
folds of black or white tulle, clings
to the edge of the brim, hangs over
the hair on the underbrim or forms
a spikelike arrangement at the back.
The large garden hats of leghorn,
mallne end lace are trimmed with
black velvet ribbon, drawn about the
crown and. passing through the slits
at the back, is tied in a Mai bow at
the back. A single flower placed at
the side near the edge of the brim
completes the trimming.
• • •
Coats shbw great diversity of
length, plain tailor-made models being
shorter than dressier models, in which
coats may reach to knees.
• • •
One pretty feature of recent sum
mer frocks has been the lace jacket
or coatee with its trimming of fur or
of swansdown. Ermine is being used
for this purpose, sometimes forming a
wide collar at the back. Wide lace
bretelles are another feature of late
fashions. They are a poor second, it
must be admitted, to the surplice and
the fichu. But anything that has the
temerity to dispute the claims of
these two effects deserves some no
tice.
• • •
Apropos of furs, it is reported that
Bechoff- David recently introduced
fox scarfs dyed a reddish shade; and
the somewhat alarming suggestion is
made that next winter we shall see
furs artificially colored in brilliant
tints. It is rather appalling .to think
of blue, green, red and violet furs!
* • #
The cincture that suggests the plas
ter babies of Lucas della Robia. at
the Orphanage in Florence, is strong
ly suggested in some of the sashes
that wrap around the waist and gir
dle the torso of the fashionable wom
an. When these long sashes first ap
peared they were not liked, but the
public taste now finds them pictur
esque.
* • •
Velvet, brocaded velvet and metallic
brocades are going to be the favored
fabrics for these garments in the au
tumn and winter, just as they are
now, and the fur collars that make
them smart in summer—according to
fashions paradoxical whims—will
make them practical as well as smart
when the theater and opera seasons
begin.
• * •
Many women are wearing eyelet
embroidered stockings in white, black
and colors; also white and black silk
stockings ornamented with embroid
ery or insets of lace. The girls who
are clever with the needle can fashion
these expensive stockings for them
selves. and pretty color notes to
match the gowns may be introduced.
• • •
Popular prizes at the bridge con
tests held by the sea are the bathing
girl pin cushions. Bisque jointed dolls
dressed in n<d and white and blue and
white striped bathing suits are
mounted on cushions of Turkish tow
eling. Some are very prim looking,
with the hair in two long braids; oth
ers suggest the mermaid with flowing
hair. The cushions are shown in
ovals, squares, circles, etc., and are
arranged to hang up and stand. They
are fitted with pins and trimmed with
ribbons to match the bathing suits.
• • •
It is almost compulsory for the blue
serge suit to have a vest or waist
coat. and all sorts of materials are
being used for them. The new du-
vetyns—a successor to the velvety
velours de laine—in the lovely soft
colorings are ideal for these waist
coats.
• * •
Chiffon veils are being embroidered,
the work being done in floss of the
same color. The pattern in all these
veils must be so arranged as to make
the plain mesh area, whether over
the entire face or simply over the
eyes, conspicuously transparent by
way of contrast.
• • *
Now that the pendulum of fashion
has swung In the direction of pleated
skirts they threaten to become ubiq
uitous. Women are discovering that
the little loose folds at the feet are
very becoming, and also that pleated
skirts do not really add width to the
figure. The sunray pleats are in great
demand for mich materials as char
meuse, silk cashmere and tussor, but
fof crepe de chine and chiffon noth
ing can take the place of the fine ac
cordion pleats.
• • *
In the world of fashion things are
frequently topsy-turvy. The unex
pected is always welcome. Now that
valuable jewels are worn on hats and
shoes the homely, but always effective
Jet ornaments are given a place of
honor. Round Jet brackets are the
latest fad, and they are worn with
light and fragile summer gowns of
lace and chiffon.
* • *
The black .and \/h ; te season in the
world of Fashion is now upon us.
After the garish colors of the spring*
there has come a complete revulsion
of feeling. Women of taste have
grown disgusted with the cobf
schemes in which crude tints were
thrown together by unskilled hands,
at the bidding of inartistic brains.
Bulgarian tints have sounded the
knel] of crude colors; for the moment
we are black and white or “pastel.”
And for the Trouville season, of
which I shall speak In detail In a
future article, an amazing number of
pure white costumes are being made
White linen, white China silk, white
embroidered lawn—thes^ and many
other dainty materials are in constant
request for seaside dresses As .o
fine white tulle it Is being used for a
dozen different purposes—for dresses,
mantles, millinery, blouses, etc. Very
lovely summer gowns are those made
of wide-mesbed silk net. the net
which bears the name of “Tosca.”
These gowns are mounted over pleated
slips of chiffon or crepe de chine and
very frequently they are decorated
with tiers of graduated flounces. Or
dinary Brussels net Is also fashion
able just now. especially for draped
mantles and for pleated waistcoats,
the latter being used in connection
with tailored suits of fine serge or
linen.
• * •
A pretty fashion has been revived
for children’s summer frocks of thin
material This is the long-ended
bow of ribbon, fastened just below
the left shoulder. The ribbon, in soft
shades of blue or pink, is made into
a many-looped rosette, quite in the
old fashion, and from the rosette
hang three or four streamer ends.
The ribbon should not be more than
an inch or an inch and a half wide.
Decollete Gowns
for Day Wear
The newest models for gowns cre
ated by the leading dressmakers for
the seasons at the fsahionable seaside
resorts present several novel fea
tures In t^e first place, the greater
number of these gowns would have
been pronounced evening dresses by
our mothers, but not by our great-
great-grandmothers, who themselves
wore decollete corsages in the day
time. The sleeves of the elaborate aft
ernoon gown of to-day are so short
and so skimpy that they hardly de
serve to be called sleeves at all. In
many cases the corsages of garden
party and race gowns do not have the
pointed back and front effect which is
peculiar to the evening dresses of to
day. but are made round on the
shoulders, quite in the style of certain
1830 gowns. White fox stoles and
borders are freely used in conjunc
tion with such robes as these. A
quaint but exceedingly picturesque
idea.